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Whitney Butters Wilde
Este Pizza in Sugar House offers many pizza varieties, including the Double Baked Roni.

SALT LAKE CITY — Family owned and operated Este Pizza specializes in New York-style pizza. And not only does the pizzeria deliver a solid product, it also channels a New York vibe in its urban-inspired decor.

The pizzeria has locations in downtown Salt Lake City, Sugar House and Park City, with each location offering a variety of appetizers, pizzas and desserts. Speciality pizza options provide something for everyone and include standards like a combination and both barbecue and buffalo chicken, as well as some more unique options like veggie lasagna and the Italian Flag — a pizza featuring three sauce stripes made from pizza sauce, pesto and ricotta.

The Sugar House location at 2148 S. 900 East feels like you’ve stepped into the middle of a city. With brightly colored graffiti, metal accents and bumper stickers plastered between the booths, diners have plenty to look at while waiting for their meal to arrive.

We awarded Este Pizza a five out of six slices.

My waiter indicated that although many varieties are considered fan favorites, the Double Baked Roni is a popular option, so I ordered a 16-inch pizza. He explained that the pizza has Este’s standard pizza sauce and cheese, but the pepperoni is handled with special care as it is baked twice: first in olive oil, then again with a variety of spices covering the pepperoni.

The pizza was delivered to my table in a very timely manner — served on a metal pizza plate with smaller metal plates to divvy out individual servings, furthering the industrial style of the pizzeria — and fit the bill of a New York-style pizza in look and taste with its thin, crisp on the edge, softer in the middle crust. The crust wasn’t dense at all, and was more reminiscent of a cracker at its crispier points.

As for the toppings, the mozzarella cheese was plentiful, but the sauce, while deliciously tangy and acidic, got a bit lost in the cheese, making me wish there was more of the sauce. The pepperoni was large and well-spaced on top of the pizza, and the blend of spices on each slice of pepperoni not only provided a unique taste on your regular pepperoni pizza but also a different texture.

Although the idea behind the Double Baked Roni was an intriguing one, the result was an ever-so-slightly elevated pepperoni pizza. Yes, it was undoubtedly a good pizza, but double baking the pepperoni just seems like a lot more work than it’s worth.

Locations: Sugar House, downtown Salt Lake City and Park City

Price: $13 for a 14-inch pizza to $25 for an 18-inch pizza

Slice score: 5 out of 6 slices