Este Pizza in Sugar House offers many pizza varieties, including the Double Baked Roni.
Whitney Butters Wilde
Este Pizza is awarded 5 out of 6 slices.
Elise Madsen, Deseret News

SALT LAKE CITY — Family owned and operated Este Pizza specializes in New York-style pizza. And not only does the pizzeria deliver a solid product, it also channels a New York vibe in its urban-inspired decor.

The pizzeria has locations in downtown Salt Lake City, Sugar House and Park City, with each location offering a variety of appetizers, pizzas and desserts. Speciality pizza options provide something for everyone and include standards like a combination and both barbecue and buffalo chicken, as well as some more unique options like veggie lasagna and the Italian Flag — a pizza featuring three sauce stripes made from pizza sauce, pesto and ricotta.

The Sugar House location at 2148 S. 900 East feels like you’ve stepped into the middle of a city. With brightly colored graffiti, metal accents and bumper stickers plastered between the booths, diners have plenty to look at while waiting for their meal to arrive.

My waiter indicated that although many varieties are considered fan favorites, the Double Baked Roni is a popular option, so I ordered a 16-inch pizza. He explained that the pizza has Este’s standard pizza sauce and cheese, but the pepperoni is handled with special care as it is baked twice: first in olive oil, then again with a variety of spices covering the pepperoni.

The pizza was delivered to my table in a very timely manner — served on a metal pizza plate with smaller metal plates to divvy out individual servings, furthering the industrial style of the pizzeria — and fit the bill of a New York-style pizza in look and taste with its thin, crisp on the edge, softer in the middle crust. The crust wasn’t dense at all, and was more reminiscent of a cracker at its crispier points.

As for the toppings, the mozzarella cheese was plentiful, but the sauce, while deliciously tangy and acidic, got a bit lost in the cheese, making me wish there was more of the sauce. The pepperoni was large and well-spaced on top of the pizza, and the blend of spices on each slice of pepperoni not only provided a unique taste on your regular pepperoni pizza but also a different texture.

Although the idea behind the Double Baked Roni was an intriguing one, the result was an ever-so-slightly elevated pepperoni pizza. Yes, it was undoubtedly a good pizza, but double baking the pepperoni just seems like a lot more work than it’s worth.

Locations: Sugar House, downtown Salt Lake City and Park City

Price: $13 for a 14-inch pizza to $25 for an 18-inch pizza

Slice score: 5 out of 6 slices