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Tommy Hilfiger, Dan & Corina Lecca, Associated Press
In this Friday, Feb. 10, 2012, handout photo provided by Tommy Hilfiger, the Tommy Hilfiger Fall/Winter 2012 collection is modeled during Fashion Week in New York.

NEW YORK — Tommy Hilfiger told the story of a young cadet's military and sport lifestyle in his fall men's collection that debuted Friday during New York Fashion Week.

"It is an academy look that is sophisticated, modern, a touch rebellious but buttoned up," he said. The show's notes called the line "a personalized take on military precision."

The military theme ran through nearly every piece, from four stripes at the wrist cuffs of coats to peacoats with chain embroidery. Zippers detailed the thighs of skinny pants and collars flipped up to reveal leather. Quilted leather was used in gloves and on the sleeves of jackets. Patches were on the inside of elbows, not the usual outside.

There were even smaller touches too. Hilfiger showed a few turtlenecks, but one model wore a small buckled belt around his neck outside the sweater like a choker necklace.

Colors were rich autumn tones of burgundy, navy, olive and grey.

Hilfiger's runway show was as painstakingly put together as the clothes in his line. His team transformed an armory in Manhattan into a garden with a brick path runway, street lights, trees and ivy-covered walls. The show started with the rhythm of military marching band drums. Actor Bradley Cooper, People magazine's sexiest man alive, and Super Bowl champion New York Giants wide receiver Victor Cruz both were there.

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