Stuart Johnson, Deseret Morning News
Part of the Art City Trolley restaurant in Springville is inside an old trolley car.


*** 1/2

Where: 256 N. Main, Springville

How much: cost of average entree: Appetizers, $5.95+, salads, $7.25+, sandwiches, $6.95+, desserts, $4+

Reservations not required

Phone: 489-8585

SPRINGVILLE — Art City Trolley is a charming restaurant where some of the diners eat in a historic trolley, and the others dine in the "station" that was added when the restaurant became more popular. It also features especially attentive servers and many menu items worth a return trip.

Much of the food is excellent. The ribs are meaty with a delectable sauce. The burgers are generous, and the dessert serving so large one might be tempted to forego everything else for a multilayered slice of carrot or chocolate cake.

The moment I entered I was prepared to like it, and I did. There were, however, a couple of disappointments. Both times I ate at the Trolley, I had to be moved to another table because the table where I originally sat was not particularly clean. The blinds at the front were dusty and made me wonder about the general upkeep of the establishment. The food, however, appeared completely presentable.

My companion raved about the artichoke dip, saying it was the best she had ever tried. All that distinguished it for me was its bright green color instead of the cream or mayonnaise base of others. I thought it was bland, but I think I caught her licking the bowl.

Another friend said the ribs and salads were to die for, and she was right. A quick study of the restaurant showed that most of the diners had selected one of the nine varieties of salad greens. I, being a potato aficionado from Idaho, would go there for the french fries. Unlike the processed varieties to which we have sadly become accustomed, these were fresh cut from potatoes with pieces of peel clinging to each fry. They were crisp on the outside and mealy and moist on the interior. It brought back childhood memories. I might have wept for joy, but it seemed kind of silly to cry over a bit of potato that had just been submerged in oil.

The desserts were monstrous and delicious. I had to take my chocolate confection home. It was so rich, I used it to finish two other meals. When I come again, it might be for the dessert, but I'll have to have an order of fries on the side. Just don't tell my dietitian.

Charlene Winters is a freelance writer, former food editor and food judge who — when she's not in the kitchen — works as the director of communications and marketing for BYU alumni. Contact her at [email protected].