I like the idea of getting up on a Saturday morning and going out for a family breakfast at a nice local restaurant.
But two factors seem to ensure this will never happen: first, my affinity for what the British call a "lie-in" on Saturday mornings; and second, the fact that I have four kids. Even if I gave up some sleep, the probability of all of us getting up and out in time for breakfast is slim, at best.
Luckily for us, there are places like Millcreek Cafe & Eggworks, which offers its tasty breakfasts from the crack of dawn through lunchtime. So, you can still order breakfast even if, as we did, you roll in after 1 p.m.
Even though we arrived within half an hour of closing time, the staff betrayed no impatience, seating us with a friendly welcome at a row of banquette-backed tables along the west wall. The dining space is square-angled and modern, but comfortable, with lots of bright light pouring in from the many windows.
"Eggworks" is a fitting name for this eatery, with an abundance of egg choices on the breakfast side of the menu. A few eggy dishes have crept to the lunch side, as well, like the "Eggworks burger," a beef patty topped with a fried egg, bacon and Cheddar Jack cheese.
Pretending we'd arrived at sunrise, most of us stuck to breakfast. Two of my daughters ordered from the excellently priced side orders, each choosing an egg, breakfast meat (in their case, bacon) and an English muffin. Their eggs were fried medium so they were firm but still a little "dippy," as my egg-loving brother calls eggs that are soft enough to swipe up the yolk on a piece of toast. And the generous serving of four strips of smoky, thick-cut bacon was cooked crisp on the edges and nicely chewy.
My husband was glad to see chicken-fried steak, one of his favorites, on the menu. It was nicely breaded, hot and crisp, with a meaty, moist interior. The country gravy on top was a little thick but had great, milky flavor, and the portion, served with scrambled eggs, hashbrowns and toast, was just right for filling in all the corners without making him feel stuffed.
I had the eggs Benedict, trusting that a restaurant with "egg" in its name would get this classic right, and boy, did it ever. Two crisp English muffin halves, topped with rounds of ham, were the resting place for the most delicately poached eggs I've ever had. The plump, pristine whites practically melted on my tongue, and the yolks, as quivery as Jell-O before I punctured them with my fork, added even more richness to the buttery golden hollandaise sauce that was ladled over everything. My younger girls each asked for a bite, then begged for more. The crisp and tender hashbrowns on the side were a great accompaniment.
We had to depend on my oldest daughter to sample the lunch menu with her bacon cheeseburger, a huge and well-seared beef patty with the same thick-cut bacon that's served with the breakfasts and lots of melted cheese (in her case, Cheddar). On the side she had what looked like a nice, fresh salad but was really nice, fresh burger fixings, plus crispy fries.
We'll be sure next time to sample Millcreek Cafe's dessert menu, which features such delectable-sounding offerings as cinnamon butter pound cake.Breakfast: omelets $6.99 and up; pancakes, French toast and waffles $3.25-$8.25; classic breakfasts $3.99-$8.25; sides 99 cents-$2.99; kids' meals $2.99-$3.99. Lunch: burgers, wraps and paninis $6.95-7.50; salads and soups $2.99-$6.95; lunch sides $1.50-$3.99; kids' meals $4.25-$4.50.
Stacey Kratz is a freelance writer who reviews restaurants for the Deseret Morning News. E-mail: [email protected]
E-mail: [email protected]