EVERGLADES CITY: Despite the name, Everglades City is not in Everglades National Park, which occupies Florida's southern tip. The park's principal access is from its east side near Miami, on the opposite side of the peninsula, and that is where visitors find most of the park's facilities. Everglades City is on the park's Gulf side, near Naples. It is still a rural community, an active commercial and sport fishing port lacking most of the usual tourist ticky-tack. While it does not have full park facilities, it does have a National Park Service visitor's center, and it is the jumping off place for canoeists and kayakers leaving on long wilderness treks through the Ten Thousand Islands region of the Everglades.

GETTING THERE: Everglades City is at the northwest corner of Everglades National Park, about 90 miles west of Miami on the east or 60 miles south of Fort Myers on the west via state route 29 off of U.S. 41, the Tamiami Trail. Nearest airports are Fort Lauderdale or Southwest Florida International.

IVEY HOUSE BED & BREAKFAST: 107 Camellia St., Everglades City; www.iveyhouse.com or 877-567-0679. Full-service hotel rooms with private bath, $75- $140; rooms with shared baths, for adventurers on a budget, $50-$75. Rates include a breakfast buffet.

GUIDED KAYAK TOURS: Offered by the Ivey House. Mangrove Tunnel Eco-Adventure, $95 for 4 1/2 hours, includes lunch. Sunset Spectacular Eco-Adventure, $80 for 2 1/2 hours. Full Moon Paddle, $80 for 3 1/2 hours. (Total Lunar Eclipse Paddle Tour scheduled for Feb. 21, 2008.) Kayak Fishing in the 10,000 Islands, $149 for 4 hours ($10 for fishing license).

FOR MORE INFORMATION: Travel information for the Gulf Coast Everglades area, plus Naples and Marco Island, www.paradisecoast.com (free visitors guide, 800-688-3600). Everglades National Park: www.nps.gov/ever/. Big Cypress National Preserve: www.nps.gov/bicy.

PARADISE COAST BLUEWAY: paradisecoastblueway.com. A new GPS-marked paddling trail system in Collier County. The Ten Thousand Islands section has been mapped with GPS coordinates for one long trail route from Everglades City to Goodland, along with six shorter day-trip paddling routes. Day-trip routes include Turner River in Big Cypress National Preserve.