You can buy the t-shirts in short sleeve or long sleeve, and you can also have your choice of slogans.

There's "I Survived the Yellowstone Fire."Or, "Last One Out of the Park Please Put Out the Fire."

Or, the hottest seller: "The CharredRock Cafe."

Wintertime has brought snow, and ice, and cold - and humor - to Yellowstone Park. This area has chilled out.

Gone are the long and heated days of the Summer of '88, when 1 million of the Park's 2.2-million acres were on fire. Four feet of snow now cover the ground, and no matter what they said about the ferociousness of forest fires out of control; about fires that could leap firebreaks in a single bound, by more than a mile sometimes; about the possibility of the whole state of Wyoming going up in smoke; the fires knew when they met their match. Anything but this.

Yellowstone sits silent under the snow, seemingly unperturbed. Elk and buffalo and moose roam the Firehole River as always, looking for food; coyotes amble across the snowswept prairies, dodging geysers; swans practice their takeoffs and landings on the ice.

The best way to see all this is via snowmobile, snow coach or cross-country skis. Or, rather, the ONLY way to see all this is via snowmobile, snow coach or cross-country skis. As with the fires last summer, the park believes in letting nature run its own course. Regular cars and trucks and motor homes aren't allowed in the winter. Snow removal is not in the budget. If driving a snowplow is your business, you don't want to live here.

Consequently, Yellowstone's border towns, such as West Yellowstone, are annually transformed into snowmobile havens, with more machines for rent than anywhere in the world.

This year, the snowmobile rental business is expected to be better than ever. Chiefly because: 1. The snows came early and deep; and 2. There is much curiosity over what the park looks like after the fires.

The snow cover keeps that something of a mystery. But there are blackened trees to be seen pointing out of the snow in great numbers - the fires often burned so hot and fast they didn't topple the trees, they just singed them into submission and moved on - and there are now open fields that used to be filled with brush.

The fire is most visible in the visitors' centers and souvenir shops, where the commemorative t-shirts are for sale and where booklets and films chronicle the natural disaster. And where debates over fire management will rage hotter and longer than any fire could ever hope for.

At the Old Faithful Visitor's Center, a 20-minute film, produced by the Park Commission, details the 10 major fires that seized the park through July and August.

Meanwhile, just outside, Old Faithful operates as unfazed as ever. Neither fire nor snow keeps geysers from their appointed rounds.

There isn't much question that this year qualifies as Yellowstone's Most Welcome Winter ever. Or that the ashes from last summer aren't lingering. But scientists insist that under the snow there are now seeds representing anywhere from 50,000 to 100,000 different kinds of plants, just waiting for the spring, and that there are anywhere from 50,000 to 1 million pine tree seeds per burned-up acre - all a part of nature's own rejuvenation project.

Yellowstone itself could buy an "I Survived the Yellowstone Fire" shirt. In a variety of colors. She can take a punch all right. Under all that snow, the Park is definitely still standing.