The key to the perfect pouty mouth fashionable women want today is how the lipstick is applied.

Bobbi Brown, makeup artist for some real beauties as well as ordinary folk, uses a pointed lip brush to apply lipstick evenly and to the full extent of the lips. Then, she outlines lips - top and bottom - with a lip pencil in the same color as the lipstick.She says lining the bottom lip really makes the lips look pouty.

Brown, who gives makeup lessons at Bergdorf Goodman on Fifth Avenue on Saturdays, says to be sure to use the lip liner after the lipstick to get a clean finish and correct the shape if you have to.

To line, start in the corner and do the top lip, then the bottom lip. Open mouth wide to get into the corners. For a flawless finish, blot lipstick on tissue to absorb excess moisture.

For full, luscious lips, choose a lighter rather than darker lipstick. Dark colors naturally recede, Brown says, making lips look smaller. Light colors emphasize the lips.

To get longer-lasting color, she says add a second coat and then blot with loose powder.

For the new "stain" look, apply lipstick with your fingers instead of a brush. This, Brown says, is a very natural way to wear lipstick and works especially well with deep colors.

Brown, the woman, says brown, the color, should be the basis for all lip colors. Indeed, she has developed a line of 10 colors which she claims are complimentary to most complexions.

Browns, she says, can be used alone or mixed. They can also correct the sins of the useless colors most women have collected. For example, if the color is too fuschia, tone it down by putting a light beige on top.