If you are old enough, you may remember eating sweet-and-sour fish in Chinese restaurants, a dish no self-respecting Chinese cook ever made - except for Americans.

There is sweet-and-sour cooking in the large culinary repertoire of China, but it isn't orange and sticky and achingly sweet. It is subtle and light, like the sauce for this fish dish.This updated version has far more vegetables than the ordinary sweet-and-sour fish, and with a bowl of rice, the meal is complete. And simple.

GAME PLAN

- Cook rice.

- Follow directions for fish.

NUTRITIONAL ANALYSIS

Per serving: 675 calories; 11 grams fat; 82 milligrams cholesterol; 500 milligrams sodium; 43 grams protein; 100 grams carbohydrate

FROM YOUR PANTRY

Long-grain rice

Cornstarch

Canola oil

Reduced-sodium soy sauce

Rice vinegar

Chicken stock

Dry sherry or orange or pineapple juice

SHOPPING LIST

12 ounces fish fillets (flounder, sole, scrod or other whitefish)

Package crystallized ginger (3 tablespoons)

4 ounces whole onion or 3 ounces chopped onion (ready-cut)

16 ounces whole broccoli or 8 ounces broccoli florettes (ready-cut)

8 ounces whole red pepper or 7 ounces sliced pepper (ready-cut)

Chinese Sweet and Savory Fish

12 ounces flounder, sole, scrod or similar whitefish fillet

2 tablespoons cornstarch

1 tablespoon canola oil

4 ounces whole onion or 3 ounces chopped onion (ready-cut) (1 cup)

16 ounces whole broccoli or 8 ounces broccoli florettes (ready-cut) (3 1/2 to 4 cups)

8 ounces whole red pepper or 7 ounces sliced pepper (ready-cut) (1 1/2 cups)

3 tablespoons dry sherry or orange or pineapple juice

1 tablespoon reduced-sodium soy sauce

3 tablespoons rice vinegar

1/2 cup no-salt-added chicken stock

3 tablespoons slivered crystallized ginger\

1. Wash and dry fish; cut into four pieces and dip into 1 tablespoon cornstarch.

2. Heat oil in wok or non-stick skillet. Brown fish on both sides quickly in hot oil and set aside.

3. Chop whole onion coarsely and add to wok. Saute over medium heat.

4. Meanwhile cut florettes from whole broccoli; cut florettes into small pieces and add to onion.

5. Trim, seed and slice whole red peppers into thin strips and add to vegetables.

6. Cut ginger into thin slivers and mix with sherry and remaining cornstarch. Then stir in soy sauce, vinegar and chicken stock. Stir into vegetables; reduce heat; add fish, cover and cook just until fish is done and vegetables begin to soften, two or three minutes.

7. Serve over rice. Makes 2 servings.

Rice

3/4 cup long-grain rice

1 1/2 cups water

1. Combine rice and water and bring to boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer until rice is tender and liquid has been absorbed.

Note: Total cooking time, 17 minutes.