Experts weigh in on spices

Published: Wednesday, Aug. 20 2003 7:49 a.m. MDT

For last week's Food section story on spices, I asked chefs and good cooks what their favorite spices were. We didn't have space to run them all (and some chefs chose herbs or other flavorings). So I've devoted this week's column to the rest of their "sage" advice:

Letty Flatt, executive pastry chef, Deer Valley: "When I am in pastry mode at Deer Valley, my favorite spice is ginger. We make an awesome gingerbread that has both fresh and powdered ginger. I also keep a jar of candied ginger in the cupboard for snacking. On the savory side, chipotle chilies in adobo sauce bring a distinctive sweet, almost chocolatey flavor to vegetable stew, enchilada sauce, etc. After I open a can, it goes in the freezer. Then when I need it, I shave off 2 teaspoons to add instant depth and heat to any dish."

Ruth Kendrick, World Champion Dutch Oven cook, and author of "Candymaking:" "I love coriander — it can go sweet or savory. It is the seed of cilantro, and I love cilantro too. I also like cardamom. It is a little bit unusual and people can't figure out what it is. I buy some of my spices in small, 99-cent jars made by Spice Trends at Macey's. Spices lose their flavor and I don't mind tossing a small 99-cent jar, but I hate to toss a large container. I get the spices I use often from Penzey's Spice Company (a mail order company). They are fresh and have a large variety."

Clyde and Terryl Miller, World Championship Dutch Oven cooks: "We've been doing a few peppered pork tenderloins for people lately with salt, sage and pepper. It tastes wonderful (if I don't get too flamboyant with the sage)."

Barbara Hill, executive chef, Snake Creek Grill: "It's a toss-up between paprika and coriander. You can get sweet or spicy paprika, and both are very different. We use sweet paprika in our crumb topping for our White Cheddar Mac & Cheese. I love to use the spicy paprika to sprinkle on chicken breasts before grilling. I like to lightly toast whole coriander, then grind with black peppercorns and mix with sea salt and use to crust the edges of fresh ahi tuna, then sear it rare. I love to mix paprika and coriander together for a "charmoula" vinaigrette and use to marinate meats, chicken or fish to grill."

Lane Pellinger, executive Chef, Creekside at Solitude Mountain Resort: "Fennel seed is extremely aromatic and it brings out the flavor of Italian sausage and meat sauces."

Chauna Duffin, co-owner of Duffin's Dutch Ovens and author of "The Dutch Oven Resource: "Cloves simmering in a pan of water makes a home smell like the holidays. Cloves are so good with ham and other meats, but can make a dessert taste scrumptious, too. They can also be used in breads and sauces."

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