The wonders of Wayne County

TORREY, Wayne County — On Thursday morning we meet a woman who grew up in the East and whose parents often brought her to Utah for camping trips. She's here now for her honeymoon, staying at a bed and breakfast near Capitol Reef. Later, on a hike, we run into two women from Portland, Ore., who make an annual pilgrimage to Utah to drive Highway 12.

After lunch, we stop at a sign that says "Flute Shop" and we meet Vance Morrell, whose great-grandfather pioneered this area and helped lower the wagons through Hole-in-the-Rock. Morrell used to work in the uranium mill in Hanksville. Now the mill and mine are closed. So he makes flutes, and in front of his shop he's built a tepee that he hopes to rent for $30 a night. He says he'll do whatever he can to earn a living here, to be able to stay and raise his family where he was raised.

These are just some of the people we meet on Thursday. On Friday, we encounter a different cast of characters — but they say the same sort of things.

In short, on any given day in this part of the world, you'll meet tourists and natives who share a long history of loving Wayne County.

It is one of the least populated counties in Utah, with fewer than 3,000 people — one person per square mile. Wayne County is home to a stretch of rock called Waterpocket Fold, which, in 1971, was enshrined as Capitol Reef National Park. Today, according to the county's tourism association, Capitol Reef is the state's least-visited national park.

Its rural character not withstanding, this county has some sophisticated amenities. It boasts food that is good by any standard. And you can find lovely bed and breakfasts, affordable motels — or you can camp in an orchard in Capitol Reef. And, of course, there's the scenery.

In early May, when we were there, the weather in Wayne County was iffy. We hiked into Grand Wash and got to the Narrows just as it started to rain, and then, not wanting to perish in a flash flood, we turned around and high-tailed it back to our car. At which time the sun came out.

So the next day, when it was snowing, we were undeterred. We decided to take the scenic drive to Fish Lake, sunshine or not. But after driving for an hour, and arriving at the turnoff to Fish Lake, we learned the road was closed for construction. Oh well, we told ourselves. There's always shopping. (Torrey has a bookstore and two art galleries.)

If you talk to the locals, they'll tell you that spring's always iffy and you should come back in the summer.