USA Today: Provo is the nation’s happiest town, but is it worth visiting?

By Jayne Clark

USA Today

Published: Monday, April 28 2014 4:35 p.m. MDT

USA Today writer Jayne Clark takes a look at what makes Provo tick.

Jaren Wilkey/BYU

PROVO, Utah (RNS) — In the happiest town in the country, candy shops outnumber bars. Downtown parking is free. Nobody smokes.

The rugged Wasatch Range hugs its eastern edge. Sprawling Utah Lake lies to the west. And the monolithic 11,750-foot Mount Timpanogos looms to the north.

The residents are mostly young, outdoorsy and religious. And, if the latest Gallup-Healthways survey is accurate, they, along with neighboring Orem, boast the nation’s highest overall sense of well-being. The annual survey of 500,000 Americans in 189 metropolitan areas quantifies attitudes on quality-of-life factors ranging from emotional and physical health to job satisfaction.

OK, so the locals like their lives. But is that reason enough for the rest of us to visit?

Joel Racker thinks so.

“Travel is huge in Utah County, but we’re not necessarily a tourist destination,” says the president of the area’s convention and visitors bureau. “One of the problems is, most people think Sundance is a 10-day festival in Park City.”

With its woodsy-chic accommodations, spa, art studio, performance space and ski area, Robert Redford’s Sundance Resort might be the region’s most high-profile tourist draw. But it’s not the only one in a county where G-rated, a-la-carte diversions rule.

Thanksgiving Point, a 300-acre non-profit complex in Lehi, 17 miles north of Provo, boasts 55 acres of gardens, the world’s largest man-made waterfall, a major dinosaur collection and a soon-to-open Museum of Natural Curiosity for children.

Just south of Provo, the Springville Museum of Art’s impressive collection — financed, in part, by annual bake sales in the town of 30,000 — has one of the nation’s largest assemblages of Soviet realist paintings.

Excursion trains on the historic Heber Valley Railroad make forays through the cottonwood- and aspen-forested Provo Canyon and along Utah Lake.

But the emphasis here is on active adventure. Multiple recreational trails attract cyclists, runners and walkers. The Provo River gets high marks from serious fly fishermen. Timpanogos Cave National Monument beckons visitors up a steep, 1 1/4-mile paved trail to its three limestone caverns. Hiking and climbing are huge among the energetic. And for those who aren’t, a network of scenic byways traverse spectacular, off-the-beaten-path mountain scenery.

Utah County is among the most conservative enclaves in a red state. At least 75 percent of residents are members of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, and Mormon culture dominates. Many establishments are closed on Sundays. It’s not a dry county, but you’ll find more in the way of ice-cream emporiums than nightclubs.

Provo is home to Brigham Young University, a church-run school whose 30,000 students sign a pledge to adhere to LDS principles, which include abstaining from alcohol and tobacco. An additional 35,000 attend Utah Valley University in Orem.

Given that so many locals share common values, it’s fair to question whether the heightened sense of well-being recorded by Gallup-Healthways comes from living among like-minded souls.

“Last summer, we had a gay pride festival, and nobody cared,” said Mayor John Curtis. “The Provo of today is very different from the Provo of 10 or 15 years ago.”

In fact, the organizer of the gay pride festival, Tosh Metzger, was surprised by the lack of reaction to the event. “We thought some people would protest, but I underestimated this town.”

Metzger, a local florist and Provo native, stays here “because I love the mountains. And the community is really nice.”

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