All day long you’ll summit the top wave in a rapid, then lose your breath as the raft pitches downward like a bull lowering its head as it charges the matador, and the wave will sweep over the boat, and everyone on it, like a matador’s cape performing a Veronica (a bull charging through a matador’s cape is a Veronica). After a week of Grand Canyon whitewater, your adrenal gland is going to need its own vacation.
4. The food: One of the best parts of a river trip is the food. And river guides feed you like kings. With the food the guides serve you, you’ll think every day is Gorge Day.
In the course of a typical day on a Grand Canyon river trip, you will go on a hike or two. It may be to an Anasazi ruin, or a scenic overlook. You will stand beneath waterfalls, you will swim in the Little Colorado River, or Havasu Creek. You may jump from the rock at Elves Chasm. That’s good. It’s all good. To experience a true adventure, you must leave your comfort zone.
But leaving your comfort zone can be uncomfortable. That’s where Dutch oven brownies come in. And peach cobbler. And a New York strip grilled medium-rare. With the appetite you worked up, you’d be happy with a peanut butter sandwich, but forget about that. Have you ever had prime rib cooked in a Dutch oven? No? You should try it.
5. Unplug: You’ll pull into camp anywhere from 3:30 to 5 p.m., and you’ll have a chance to do as the river does when it reaches Conquistador Isle: slow down and reflect.
Your day will be filled with hikes and swims, but the afternoon and evening are yours. Down in the depths of the Grand Canyon you can’t get a cellphone signal. There’s no wi-fi. There’s no TV. Get this: people gather their chairs together and actually talk. They explore trails, they wade in the river, they read novels, they write in their journals and draw in their sketchbooks. They throw a Frisbee with their kids. They sit on the riverbank and just stare at the river. They see shooting stars. They remember what it feels like to be a human being, rather than a human texting. And they love it.
6. The night sky: One of my favorite places in the Grand Canyon is my sleeping bag. Not because I’m tired (though I am), but because I like watching the night sky. But after a busy day running rapids it’s a challenge to keep my eyes open long enough to take it in. But every night I still give it the ol’ Boatman Try.
And such will be your challenge. From the minute you leave Lees Ferry you’ll be bordered by tall cliff walls, and your view of the sky between them will be narrow but oh so amazing. From down here the night sky looks like a planetarium with only two of its five star projectors working. But from each new camp you’ll see a new swath of sky and constellations.
Seen from the depths of the Grand Canyon, the night sky is clear, unpolluted and full of stars. From down here the Milky Way is as vivid as a white-sand beach, and it cuts through the sky like a cosmic contrail, or an intrusion of Zoroaster Granite in a wall of Vishnu Schist.
7. Canyon Magic: You will reach river mile 188 and you’ll be helicoptered out of the beautiful Grand Canyon, and you’ll think your trip is over. You’d be wrong about that. In truth, your trip is just beginning, because after a week experiencing its adventure, its grandeur, its paradisical glory, the Grand Canyon is now in your blood. You’ll get home and discover that you can’t stop thinking about it. You’ll browse travel magazines hoping to find an article about a Grand Canyon river trip. You’ve been struck by Canyon Magic.
Grand Canyon Magic is different for each person. For some it was that day they swam in the Little Colorado River. For others it was the majesty of the canyon’s natural architecture. For some it was evening storytime. To initiate storytime, just ask the guides to tell you the craziest thing that’s happened to them down here. Then get comfortable; they can go on for a while.
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