In our own backyard: Vacationing in Yellowstone

By Daniel Florence

For the Deseret News

Published: Saturday, Aug. 4 2012 3:00 p.m. MDT

The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone is one of the most popular attractions in Yellowstone National Park.

Dan Florence

More than 3 million people from all over the world visited the world’s very first national park last year, but many in Utah only need to drive half a day to see the natural wonders of Yellowstone. Home to half of the planet’s geothermal features, large wild animals like elk, buffalo, wolves and bears, and beautiful rivers, lakes, waterfalls, forests, canyons and mountains, Yellowstone is full of opportunities to make memories that will last a lifetime.

Things to see and do

Wildlife can be found throughout the park, but one of the best places to find grizzly bears, bison and elk is Hayden Valley. The highway from the Yellowstone Lake area to Canyon runs along the western side of this valley. Other good spots include Pelican Valley, which is three miles east of Fishing Bridge, and Lamar Valley, which is about four miles east of the Tower-Roosevelt area. Coyotes are also plentiful in these regions, and they are good places to find larger birds such as bald eagles, cranes, northern harriers and white pelicans.

Many of the park’s larger animals are most active at dawn and dusk, so getting up early or going out in the evening can be especially rewarding if you’re trying to view wildlife. Consider bringing a spotting scope, binoculars or high-zoom camera, as many animals will keep a considerable distance and may be difficult to see with the naked eye. Follow park rules for keeping your distance from wild animals — nothing would ruin a vacation quicker than being gored by a bison or attacked by a bear. Bison especially may seem docile and slow but can be suddenly startled or agitated and can run more than 30 mph despite weighing as much as a ton.

For geyser viewing, you can’t go wrong with Old Faithful and the surrounding area. Old Faithful erupts approximately every 90 minutes, spewing thousands of gallons of water and reaching a height of up to 184 feet. Park rangers can accurately predict the intervals between eruptions for this and five other geysers in the park, and schedules can be found posted near Old Faithful or you can ask a ranger for more information.

Besides geysers, which shoot water into the air, Yellowstone is home to thousands of other geothermal features such as gargling mud pots, colorful hot springs and steaming vents called fumaroles. Most of these hydrothermal attractions are grouped together in basins where heat from underground magma brings hot water and steam to the surface. Many of these basins have easily accessible walkways weaving through the natural wonders. Most have pamphlets available to purchase or borrow that describe the various features and the history of the area. Geothermal areas are scattered throughout Yellowstone — pick up a map from the ranger station as you enter the park or check out one online before you go.

Be prepared for unexpected traffic delays during trips through the park. Periodic construction or accidents can cause congestion, and vehicles frequently stop in the road to view wildlife. On a recent July afternoon, a herd of bison blocked a major thoroughfare for more than three hours, backing up traffic for miles. While major delays are rare, it may be a good idea to keep water and snacks accessible in your car and be flexible with your schedule. You can also avoid being part of the problem by pulling completely off the road when viewing or photographing wildlife or scenery.

The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone is a breathtaking gorge in the northeast quarter of the park. Carved by the Yellowstone River and tinged by altered iron content from previous hydrothermal activity, the canyon is believed to be the source of the Yellowstone name. Views of the chasm are a short walk from parking lots on either the north or south sides of the canyon. Hikes to the river and overlooks near the 109-foot-high Upper Falls or the 308-foot-high Lower Falls are much more strenuous. If you venture off the paved path and along either the North or South Rim trails, you will be treated to more spectacular vistas and a measure of solitude. This is true of much of the park — few visitors stray far from the main roads and paved access points, so taking the less-beaten path is often peaceful and highly rewarding.

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