Lone Star Taqueria

A dozen food scouts were recently sent from Sunset Magazine to chomp their way through the West in search of the best taco.

Who would have dreamed they'd discover it in Salt Lake City.

But it's true. Backed by their research and practiced palates, these foodies chose Lone Star Taqueria as the home of "The Top Tacos." Best in the West.

Surprised? The kicker is that Lone Star's winning tacos are worlds away from the usual corn tortilla filled with seasoned ground beef and shredded lettuce.

Fish tacos are Lone Star's baby. They originated south of the border as street food, migrated to California and have been booming here ever since. Just ask the folks lined up out the door of this former frozen yogurt shop that's been transformed into a hot spot for authentic Mexican takeout.

The dcor of the place is total funk — with brown paper bags strung on clotheslines that crisscross the ceiling, advertising daily specials. Aztec ceremonial masks look down on eat-in diners crowded into the multi-windowed dining area. Not-so-refurbished patio tables and chairs are reclaimed yard-sale beauties that match the broken down sticker-covered station wagon permanently crashed into a makeshift fence.

A suspicious "fin" poking out on top of the wreck advertises fish tacos. Well-worn cowboy boots top the fence posts.

Locals flock to the place — it's pleasantly packed for lunch and dinner. The drive-up window also does a brisk business.

Several local eateries feature their own version of the fish taco (Rubio's, de Fuego, Dos Serranos and others), but the authenticity of the Lone Star pescado taco is unrivaled, says owner Susan Harries.

Unlike most, Lone Star uses grilled fish, not deep fried. (On another healthy note, Lone Star beans are cooked without lard.)

Harries, who has frequented Mexico for years (she owns land in la Manzanilla), became hooked on the local fast-food fish tacos there while vacationing on the beaches south of the border.

The road to becoming a restaurateur had a humble beginning for the native Utahn. Her first "culinary" experience was in her teens, as a dishwasher at the Heather (which is no longer in business). She moved through several career upgrades and eventually took ownership of The Park Cafe. (Her brother owns Fresco, the recent recipient of first-place honors in the Zagat Guide). She opened the Lone Star six years ago and has watched business climb dramatically.