Cardinal watchers might also want to keep their eyes on the pectoral crosses worn by the churchmen: When the Jesuit Bergoglio became a bishop in 1992, a friend bought him the simple metal pectoral cross he continues to wear as pope (having eschewed the gold-plated one offered to him the night of his election). Bergoglio's metal cross was purchased in Mancinelli's shop and identical versions are on sale for about 330 euros today.
And of course, there are the parties that follow the consistory. In the past, new cardinals have been known to have sumptuous receptions thrown on their behalf by donors, friendly religious orders or church institutions. They are meant to entertain the parishioners, friends and family who may have travelled long distances for the occasion. It should be recalled that when Francis was installed as pope, he asked his sister to stay home in Argentina and for his other countrymen to donate to charity the money they would have spent to travel to Rome.
In a personal letter sent to his new cardinals in early January, Francis asked them to accept his nomination with joy, but to "do so in a way that this avoids any expression of worldliness, or any celebration alien to the evangelical spirit of austerity, simplicity and poverty."
Mancinelli said that ever since Francis became pope a year ago, there has been a bit of "belt-tightening" all around in clerical garb, due also to the global economic crisis.
But there will always be exceptions. Across the Tiber river from the Vatican and Mancinelli's small shop is Gammarelli, tailors by papal appointment and founded in 1798. Gammarelli famously prepares the three white outfits — small, medium and large — that a newly elected pope picks according to his size to wear out onto the balcony of St. Peter's after his election.
Sixth generation Lorenzo Gammarelli said Francis' call for sobriety — which Esquire credited with subtly signaling "a new era (and for many, renewed hope) for the Catholic Church" — hadn't really affected business at all.
"Those who were simple before remain simple today," he said. And vice versa. Speaking in front of the old world shop window decorated with the finest of scarlet cardinal garb, including that fancy red cape, he acknowledged: "Simplicity is not here."
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