"Galaxy dress" inventor Mouret plays with shapes

PARIS — There must be a lot of pressure on Roland Mouret to break away from the label of the one-dress wonder.

The inventor of the famed cap-sleeved "Galaxy dress," that's graced a million red carpets, has, perhaps consciously, been in an experimental mood recently, gently modifying his signature mold. This continues in his coherent spring-summer 2013 show.

Where last season the silhouettes were likened to an abbreviated 1950s "New Look," Friday's show had tinges of 1980s space-age geometry.

Origami-like folds on belts, straps and sporadically attached large pockets provided a small creative twist on a more structured, fitted collection.

Peplums and geometric filets, and one-off pleats provided the creative butter, spread on his bread-winning va va voom silhouettes.

They made a comeback as pencil skirts and sheaths this season in deep green, white and on-trend vermillion.

Albeit playfully, there were some moments when Mouret's detailing got the better of him.

One horizontal pleat on an hourglass derriere provoked smiles: It looked like the model had sat down too hurriedly and made a crease.

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Thomas Adamson can be followed at http:/ /Twitter.com/ThomasAdamsonAP