Fashion capitals map out more optimistic looks

Expect to see some meaty prints, leather, lace and micro shorts on the racks of fashion-forward stores come spring, but the real trend to emerge from the bellwether catwalks around the world is cautious optimism.

New York, London, Paris and Milan, Italy, recently wrapped up their Fashion Weeks for next season. While other cities and individual brands will still stage runway presentations, those four fashion marathons are the ones that set the tone.

At this time last year, the industry — fresh off showing its spring '09 clothes — was struggling to react to the economic downturn. Since it was largely too late to change collections to adjust for a free-falling stock market, pretty much all that was left to do was put jumpsuits, harem pants and tropical-colored clothes on sale.

Given a little more time in crafting their fall collections, designers stripped down the glitz, toned down the glamour and created a warrior-like muse.

She has served her purpose, insiders say, giving shoppers a few must-have items, including mannish jackets, tarnished metallics and a rocker-chick get-up, but she can't wear such armor forever.

"The tough-girl, biker motif must be working and popular for fall, so we're getting the spring interpretation," says Ariel Foxman, editor of InStyle magazine. "The cool, attitudinal girl has been embraced, but there also was a lot of romantic, feminine collections that were lovely. You have layers, pastels, lace and silk — it's a real dichotomy."

It's a win-win for consumers and the fashion world to embrace a slower evolution instead of the "whiplash effect" of completely switching style gears from season to season, Foxman says.

Designers seem to be flexing their creative muscles, too, realizing that shoppers don't want expensive basics from top-tier collections, adds Allure Editor-in-Chief Linda Wells.

Julie Gilhart, executive vice president and fashion director at Barneys New York, says the retailer looked specifically for clothes that were stylish but also offered value and longevity. She is eager to get draped dresses and many of the printed fabrics into stores.

"Spring is about the sum of all the details. You have the sense the clothes have something extra and are not the basics you've seen a million times before," agrees Wells. "It must be a reaction on some level to the economy, that no one is running out to buy a new pencil skirt — but what about one with an applique or beading?"