My gluten-free column for the month of July is this versatile custard pie. Chess Pie is a dessert that's characteristic of Southern cuisine. Recipes vary but are generally similar in that they call for the preparation of a single crust and a filling composed of eggs, butter, granulated sugar, brown sugar and vanilla. What sets Chess Pie apart from many other custard pies is the substitution of cornmeal for flour. I like to serve Chess Pie topped with freshly sliced peaches, which are at their peak this time of year.

CHESS PIE

1 frozen gluten-free pie crust (9-inch diameter), thawed

1/2 cup sugar

1/2 cup brown sugar

1/4 cup cornmeal

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 cup buttermilk

2 eggs, lightly beaten

2 tablespoons butter, melted

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1. Preheat the oven to 350 F. Poke holes in the thawed pie crust and place it in the preheated oven for 5 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool.

2. In a medium bowl, combine the sugar, brown sugar, cornmeal, nutmeg and cinnamon, and mix well.

3. In another bowl combine the buttermilk, eggs, melted butter and vanilla. Beat with a fork until smooth. Pour the liquid ingredients into the dry ingredients and mix well. Pour the mixture into the partially baked pie crust.

4. Bake for 1 hour, or until lightly browned and a sharp knife inserted into the center of the pie comes out clean. Allow to cool completely on a rack.

Makes 8 servings.

Each serving contains approximately: 189 calories; 6 gm fat; 71 mg cholesterol; 116 mg sodium; 30 gm carbohydrates; 3 gm protein; negligible fiber.

My booklet "Beans and Legumes for Every Occasion" contains light but satisfying recipes for the most commonly used beans and tells how to substitute some of the more readily available designer varieties. To order, send $3 (check or money order made payable to King Features) and a stamped (61 cents), self-addressed, No. 10 envelope to Beans, P.O. Box 536475, Orlando, FL 32853-6475.

Jeanne Jones is the author of 33 cookbooks, most recently "Cooking From the Cupboard" (Rodale Press). For more information, you can go to her Web site, jeannejones.com.

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