Dining out: Pirate O's Deli features gourmet sandwiches
DRAPER — I'm always looking for a chance to visit Pirate O's, a funky, totally unpretentious gourmet food store in Draper — though I do have to consciously limit my visits to one every couple of months, since I always end up spending about five times more than I intended.
But now that Pirate O's has opened a deli featuring sandwiches made with many of its best products, I may find myself visiting more often.
These are good, imaginative sandwiches, as my friend Brenda and I discovered when we had lunch there on a recent weekday.
The restaurant is carved out of a corner of the store near the cash registers, with a simple deli case, a few tables and smiling servers wearing pirate head wraps showing customers they're in the right place.
The menu isn't long — several grilled sandwiches on ciabatta and several cold sandwiches — but it's still hard to choose when words such as "lingonberries," "fresh mozzarella" and "raspberry honey mustard" are jumping out at you.
Each sandwich comes with a bag of crunchy kettle chips. Customers can choose from the nearby cases of drinks — everything from European bottled water and Orangina to Stewart's Key Lime and Orange Crush — or, if one case of drinks seems too limiting, they can stroll over to the store's cold room for shelf upon shelf of exotic bottled drinks.
Brenda had the grilled turkey sandwich with havarti cheese and lingonberries. I liked this sandwich's thoughtful combination of fruit and cheese from the same part of the world — they work beautifully together, creamy and acidic, sweet and salty.
My son had the roast-beef panini welded together with provolone and topped with thin-sliced white onions, cucumbers and snappy chipotle mayonnaise — on sale, incidentally, on a shelf nearby.
Of course, since he's 3 years old, there was plenty of sandwich left for my daughters to devour as an after-school snack.
I had a cold sandwich, the turkey and Swiss on a fresh, crackly Vosen's baguette with red onion, lettuce, cream cheese and fabulous ancho-chile jam, which I intend to buy in large quantities as soon as I go back.
It's sweet, chunky and just a little spicy.
I'm conflicted about sandwiches on baguettes, because the firm bread often means the contents get squeezed out as I eat. But in this case, I put up with it, because the robust fillings seemed to demand robust bread.
There's no dessert at the deli counter, so if I were you, I'd do what we did: Wander the aisles until one of the many sweets from around the world catches your eye.
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