Dollars and dining: How new restaurants are weathering the recession

Published: Tuesday, June 2, 2009 6:54 p.m. MDT
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The restaurant business is challenging in any economy. In the midst of a recession and downtown Salt Lake construction projects, the risks are even higher.

Yet a handful of independent eateries have sprung up in the last few months. Most aren't the traditional large, sit-down restaurant with a menu spanning several pages. Instead, the newcomers are experimenting with strategies to help them survive, and even thrive in the current economy.

In fact, some owners say the empty buildings, cost-conscious customers and lessened competition work in their favor.

Who knows which of these will be around in five years? Meanwhile, they are spicing up the local dining scene.

Local and organic

"Green" is the new black, and three restaurants have jumped on the "local, organic, sustainable" bandwagon.

Tipica, 314 W. 300 South, takes advantage of space at Tony Caputo's Market & Deli that's empty at night. Business is bustling during the lunch hour, but it dies down after 3 p.m., noted Matt Caputo. So Wednesday through Saturday evenings, the deli is transformed with white tablecloths and fine china. Billowy curtains hide counters and shopping aisles, and the dock door opens up for a semi-alfresco dining experience.

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"Tipica" is the greatest compliment you can pay an Italian chef, Caputo said; it means your food captures the soul and traditions of a region.

Tipca is part of restaurant-supported agriculture, or an RSA, with local Bell Organics farm. The restaurants buy a share in the farm, and each week, they receive a portion of whatever is harvested.

So Tipica's menu changes with what produce comes in, backed up by ingredients from Caputo's market.

"People may not be able to show their friends the incredible pasta they had the week before," said Caputo. "But we know the difference in a tomato from a garden and a tomato that comes from a supply chain."

Meats are sourced from small, local, sustainable farms, fish from 100-percent sustainably fished or farmed stock. Pasta is made from organic semolina and free-range eggs.

"We will never put one morsel on the menu that came from a conventional big farm," said Caputo.

Recent comments

Wiseguys is an awful place to go. Poor service, average food, same...

Amy | Oct. 10, 2009 at 12:28 a.m.

All of a sudden Utah wakes up to discover local food and the...

truthinfood | Aug. 1, 2009 at 11:13 p.m.

For including the phone numbers & addresses. Article wasn't real...

thax | June 3, 2009 at 8:31 p.m.

Image

Tony Caputo's is transitioning to fine dining at night with Tipica, serving a gourmet menu and using locally grown produce and meats.

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