U.S. demand for acai makes staple too costly in Amazon

Rising U.S. sales of acai, a purple Amazon berry promoted as a "superfood" on Oprah Winfrey's Web site, are depriving Brazilian jungle dwellers of a protein-rich nutrient they've relied on for generations.

U.S. consumers are turning "a typical poor people's food into something like a delicacy," said Oscar Nogueira, who specializes in the fruit at Embrapa, Brazil's agricultural research company.

Spending on acai-based products by Americans seeking to lose weight, gain energy or slow aging doubled to $104 million last year, according to SPINS, a Schaumburg, Illinois-based market research firm. Since U.S. demand took off early this decade, the fruit's wholesale price in Brazil has jumped about 60-fold, Embrapa data show.

In 2008, exports from Para, the South American country's main producing state, climbed 53 percent to account for about a quarter of output, according to the local government. Production, though, has increased little in the past five years.

Winfrey, 55, discussed the berry with Mehmet Oz on her TV talk show in February 2008, when the New York cardiologist presented his "anti-aging checklist." It includes acai, blueberries and tomatoes.

"It has twice the antioxidant content of a blueberry," said Oz, 48.

Winfrey's site publishes dermatologist Nicholas Perricone's "10 Superfoods List," which includes the Brazilian fruit. Meriden, Connecticut-based Perricone, 60, sells skin-care items and food supplements, including a powder that contains the berry, according to his Web page.

Oz declined to be interviewed for this article. Perricone didn't reply to e-mail and telephone requests for comment.

Perricone's list on Winfrey's site includes a link to a statement saying she isn't associated with any acai product.

"We are pursuing unauthorized uses of Ms. Winfrey's name associated to acai-based products, none of which she has endorsed," said Don Halcombe, a spokesman for Harpo Inc., Winfrey's production company. Chicago-based Harpo is turning over complaints about such items to the Illinois Attorney General's office, Halcombe said in a telephone interview.

Halcombe declined to comment on the effect increased U.S. demand is having on traditional consumers in Brazil.

Some U.S. Web sites say the berry can help with weight loss, sexual dysfunction, fighting cancer cells and regenerating muscles.