I also liked the ham-fried rice, the simple kind featuring only rice, ham, egg and a little onion, and my son practically dived into his serving of pan-fried noodles, alternately crunchy and tender and topped with beef, chicken, pork, shrimp, carrots and broccoli in a mild brown sauce.

The food was very good. But what made it a special lunch was this: We were greeted by every staff member who saw us. We were checked on by three staffers about 10 times during our meal. Despite the elegant surroundings, our 3-year-old was not only accommodated but also welcomed. The table was clean, and our orders arrived quickly.

And as we finished our meal, a server approached our table with takeout containers and a bag and boxed up the leftovers with brisk professional courtesy. All of that made our $8.50 a person seem not only reasonable, but a fantastic bargain.

Stacey Kratz is a freelance writer who reviews restaurants for the Deseret News.

e-mail: skratz@desnews.com

J. Wong's Asian Bistro

Rating: ★★★ 1/2

Where: 163 W. 200 South

Hours: Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.

Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m.

Sunday, 4-9 p.m.

Payment: Major credit cards accepted

Phone: 801-350-0888

Wheelchair access: Easy

Also: Banquet room available