Dining out: Little Dave's Deli

Watching my kids joyfully choosing bottles of soda from the old-timey fridge at Big Dave's Deli, I couldn't help but smile.

Their delight as they compared different flavors and labels — would Quench be better, with its grapefruit and lemon combination, or should they choose Nesbitt's orange or peach? — was infectious, causing even the young man behind the counter to chuckle.

It was my turn to laugh a few minutes later, though, when a group of adults came in for some takeout and did the same thing.

Same expressions of surprise and delight. Same earnest comparisons. Same eager anticipation when the choices were finally made.

There really is something evocative about Little Dave's Deli. The dining space, all black-and-white tile, dark wood and big windows, is bisected by an antique flatbed truck and, at ceiling level, lined with a glowing backlit display of hundreds of sodas from all over the world.

Customers can walk up to that ol' fridge and pull out a cold glass bottle of Cheerwine or Bubble Up.

And there's a mannered intimacy to the service, as well, as if you've just been introduced to a new friend at a neighborhood picnic.

There aren't a ton of sandwiches on offer at Little Dave's, but there are enough. Frankly, I can't see myself ever getting anything other than the three tasty kinds we tried on the evening we stopped in for dinner.

We got our dinner to go, because Little Dave's closes at 6 p.m. weekdays. If you want to really soak in the atmosphere, come for lunch.

I had the 6-inch Philly steak, which at Little Dave's is a cross between the cheesesteak in its most classic form and an Italian beef sandwich.

To the usual thin-sliced grilled steak on firm but soft French bread were added onions, bell peppers and provolone cheese, plus mayo, pickles and a touch of hot diced cherry peppers. If you're a purist, get it with fewer ingredients. If you want to try something a little different, get it as is and enjoy.

My husband had the special, a 6-inch French dip on that same bread with juicy slices of beef and a cup of strong, nicely seasoned jus for dipping. Two of our daughters shared a 6-inch barbecue pork sandwich, generously portioned and very meaty with a light dressing of sweet, piquant sauce.

The other kids shared a grilled cheese sandwich, your classic American-on-white-bread combo.

Some of us had chips with our sammies, and others had thick-cut fries.

For dessert, the kids gobbled down tasty regular and strawberry "Jersey sticks," which basically are cheesecake Popsicles.

But the real sweet treats of the meal were those fabulous sodas. We had Quench, and sweet and tart Nesbitt's peach, and dark and fruity Nu Grape, all of which have been made since the first half of the 1900s.