I liked my "hobo pack," a melange of corn, squash, peppers, carrots, onions and other veggies nicely seasoned and grilled in parchment.

There are several desserts, but we went with two hand-mixed shakes, the chocolate and coffee flavors. They were tasty but way too small to justify their $5 price tag.

The Counter's national success tells me that many, many people feel this is, indeed, the burger at its best. But when I'm out for a burger on my own dime, even if I've got a lot of dimes to spend, I'll probably go to one of Utah's many other fine burger joints.

Appetizers and sides $1-$7.95; burgers $7.50-$13.75; sandwiches $5.95-$6.95; kids' meals $3.95-$4.95; desserts, shakes and floats $2.95-$4.95.

The Counter

Rating: ★★1/2
Where: 188 S. Rio Grande
Hours: Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.
Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m.
Sunday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.
Payment: Major credit cards accepted
Phone: 801-297-1000
Wheelchair access: Accessible but crowded
Web: www.thecounterburger.com

Stacey Kratz is a freelance writer who reviews restaurants for the Deseret News. E-mail: skratz@desnews.com