I also had a hand roll, a cone of nori filled with cucumber, beautiful little green-leafed sprouts, yellowtail, sticky rice and Ginza's "special spicy sauce." Yellowtail is one of my favorite types of sushi, one of the "fishiest" of fish with a rich smell and taste, and the roll's other ingredients were a nice foil for it. The sauce is definitely special, with a complex and buttery flavor, and most definitely spicy. My first two bites almost blew off the top of my head, but I got used to it as I ate the roll down to the bottom, and the spice became merely warming.

So warming, in fact, that I almost felt I could go back out into the storm without a coat, warmed for the weather from the inside out.

Lunch: appetizers $3.75-$14.95, noodles $11.50-$12.95, combination boxes $11.95-$15.95, donburi $10.95-$11.50, sushi lunch $14.95, tempura lunch $12.50, roll sushi $4.50-$13.95, nigiri sushi $4.95-$6.95, hand roll sushi $4.25-$5.50, sides $1.75-$1.95.

Rating: ***

Where: 209 W. 200 South (second location at 715 E. 12300 South in Draper)

Hours: Monday-Thursday, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.

Friday, 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m.

Saturday, 5:30-10:30 p.m.

Closed Sunday

Payment: Major credit cards accepted; no out-of-state checks

Phone: 322-2224

Wheelchair access: Cramped, and a few steps and bumps into the dining space

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Stacey Kratz is a freelance writer who reviews restaurants for the Deseret News. E-mail: skratz@desnews.com