We toured the string of small fishing villages along the southern portion of the islands. At the very edge of Lofoten was the town of A (pronounced "o"), with a small bakery and tourist shop where we both stamped our passports with the town insignia.

Just beyond the town was a walkway that led to a series of sharp cliffs that marked the end of the main Lofoten islands. Campers had raised tents along various outcroppings here, and bright patches of pink wildflowers accented the earth tones of the mountains and sea.

While standing by the cliffs, we felt as if we were at the edge of the world. In the distance, the two outlying islands of Vaeroy and Rost were barely visible and the ocean seemed to stretch into forever through the hazy sky.

But that wasn't the only magical view.

Northeast of A is the town of Reine. This is the place we saw in the picture; the place that prompted us to come here.

And it was every bit as beautiful and unimaginable as we had hoped.

As in the picture, a powerful mountain peak rose from the water of a natural bay. Brightly colored fisherman huts were scattered near the water's edge.

During the morning of our first day in Lofoten, we attempted a hike to top of Mount Reinebringen, a peak that overlooks Reine and offers a sparkling view of the Reinefjord with its craggy rocks that look like shark's teeth, and the ocean.

It wasn't a trek for the fearful. The trail was steep and marked by loose rocks. At one point, a rope was needed to pull ourselves up the slope. My husband (I think he's part mountain goat) finished the climb. I stopped when my inane fear of falling became too strong.

During our hike, the sun was bright and warm. At times it would peek from behind the mountains and cast a bright spotlight on villages otherwise shadowed by rocky peaks.

Toward the end of our second day, a storm crept in. It started with a few wisps of clouds that snaked around the base of the mountains, adding a new perspective to the dramatic peaks. Then the clouds became thicker and covered the inner island channels with a heavy layer of fog.

When we boarded a boat to leave Lofoten, the sun came out briefly, touching the tops of the mountain peaks, and then disappearing as the sky became gray and again shrouded the islands.

It was as if nature were bidding us a sweet farewell to this magical place.

About the Lofoten Islands:

• Southwest of the island chain is one of the world's most powerful ocean currents. It's called the Moskstraumen, or maelstrom, and forms boat-destroying whirlpools that have been referenced in literature such as Jules Verne's 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea.