'Accidental wilderness' in western Massachusetts is mecca for nature lovers

BELCHERTOWN, Mass. — The sun hadn't even started to rise over the Quabbin Reservoir before would-be anglers arrived for the recent opening day of fishing season, their boats lined up at its three launch areas.

It's a testament to the popularity of the western Massachusetts reservoir, a mecca for hikers, bicyclists, fishing enthusiasts and other nature lovers drawn to what's become known over the decades as the "accidental wilderness."

The man-made reservoir, created about 70 years ago to provide drinking water to greater Boston, has become a busy recreational, cultural and historical attraction in the midst of a region also flush with many other tourist stops.

The Quabbin Visitor Center, which looks north over the 18-mile-long reservoir, hosts a steady stream of year-round guests with questions about the region's offerings and history.

"Its reputation has really grown as a popular and beautiful spot," said Clifton Read, who heads education programs at the visitors center. "The view from here, especially from the Enfield Lookout, is really dramatic in all seasons and especially in fall."

The Quabbin, which holds up to 412 billion gallons of water, sits in what once was a valley of four rural towns. They were dissolved in 1938, and the structures that weren't hauled away in pieces by their owners were razed to make way for the reservoir.

For many travelers, a visit to the Quabbin is part of a larger jaunt to tour the region's historical sites, university campuses, museums, orchards and country stores, antique markets, bistros and ecotours.

The Quabbin Visitor Center's guest book sports signatures from throughout New England and as far away as Europe. Some guests are day-trippers or weekend visitors, while others stop to explore the area while traveling between New York, Hartford, Boston and other urban destinations.

Many visitors center guests come seeking Quabbin maps and trail guides or tips on the best viewing spots for spring wildflowers, autumn leaf-peeping and bald eagles in winter.

Other visitors linger to read about the industrial marvels of the reservoir's creation, or the history of the four towns dissolved in April 1938 to make way for the freshwater lake.

Some come just for the solitude.