Ippudo goes through nearly 300 pounds of top-quality pork bones a day, Suganuma says. It took months for the Japanese chefs to perfect their recipes, eventually settling on White Pearl flour (from winter wheat) and filtered New York tap water for the noodles and Berkshire pork for the broth.

Suganuma is such a purist that he won't sell ramen to go at his restaurant — a gesture that may baffle New Yorkers, who practically survive on take-out food.

Why? "Noodles get soggy," he says.

Wong, the self-described rameniac, says he plans to visit New York to try Ippudo, testing his theory that real ramen has finally arrived in the United States.

"We are in ramen renaissance," he says.

If you don't happen to live near one of the new gourmet ramen noodle shops popping up in the U.S., you can still enjoy a gussied up version of this inexpensive dorm room staple.

RAMEN NOODLE SALAD

Start to finish: 30 minutes
Servings: 6

3 tablespoons toasted sesame or peanut oil
2 tablespoons seasoned rice vinegar
2 tablespoons honey
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons canola oil
Pinch red pepper flakes
3-ounce package instant ramen noodles, seasoning packet discarded, noodles broken into small pieces
2 tablespoons sesame seeds
10-ounce bag baby spinach greens
1 bunch scallions, finely chopped

1 green apple, cored and cut into matchsticks
1/4 cup dried cranberries

To make the dressing, in a small bowl, whisk together the sesame oil, rice vinegar, honey and soy sauce. Set aside.

In a medium skillet over medium heat, combine the canola oil and red pepper flakes. Heat for 30 seconds, then add the noodles and sesame seeds. Cook, stirring constantly, until golden, about 8 minutes.

Transfer the noodle mixture to a large bowl and let cool 10 minutes. Add the spinach, scallions and apple slices, then drizzle with dressing and toss to coat. Top with dried cranberries. — J.M. Hirsch, Associated Press