Fashion Week trends: Military looks and drama

NEW YORK — Fashion's top brass seems to like the military look for next fall. Three days into the seasonal previews at New York Fashion Week Saturday, sharp-shouldered styles for the urban brigade have emerged as a trend.

Prabal Gurung, one of Michelle Obama's favorite designers, opened his show with a sharp black cape — with a black patent-leather tank peeking out — and black neoprene molded trousers. The outfit oozed strength but it wasn't overly tough, either. Alexander Wang had top model Gisele Bundchen in a military-inspired trenchcoat.

It was a similar story at the Rag & Bone and Jason Wu shows a day earlier, which both took traditional military touches, including strong shoulders, epaulets, grommets and big buttons, and put them through a feminine filter. Meanwhile, Tommy Hilfiger described his new men's collection as "an academy look that is sophisticated, modern, a touch rebellious but buttoned up." In the notes from Friday's show he called the line "a personalized take on military precision."

"Maybe there's some subconscious thing with the troops coming out of Iraq," said Joanna Coles, editor-in-chief of Marie Claire. "There is a more positive spin on military, much more so than when we saw military after 9/11."

The look is a good one for consumers, she said. "Military is easy to wear. It smartens your outfit, chic-ifies outerwear and it's a good color range of neutrals that are flattering."

Coles added, "The military is a well-oiled machine and military clothes reflect that. There's organization and no room for doubt."

But there's a broad range of styles that tap into the trend, from crisp dress clothes inspired by officers to the more hipster interpretation of the urban warrior.

Gurung said his strong runway designs were more to make a statement and tell a story than some of his other looks for fall, which he described as "more wearable and sportswear-driven." He said he didn't have the first lady in mind when he conceived of the collection, adding, "I do hope she's going to like something. But it's more her effect has tremendous positive impact on my business."

Other Saturday shows included Christian Siriano, who's zoomed to success since his 2008 win on the "Project Runway" TV show at age 22, showing winged dresses with a bat vampire theme; stylist-turned-designer Rachel Zoe with her trademark rock-star jetsetter look of thigh-high boots and faux fur coats; and Jill Stuart with sharp shoulders and dark floral motifs.

PRABAL GURUNG