Coats provide a hedge against financial chill

MILAN — Want a safe hedge against Europe's economic gloom? Designers are banking on the overcoat.

But not just any coat will do. A rich, red long overcoat with an astrakhan fur lapel modeled by Adrien Brody at Prada was emblematic of the winter look that made a big comeback on the Milan runways during menswear fashion week, which ended Tuesday.

Shearling, hardy and multipurpose yet fashionable, is the darling of the season. But there also will be an array of elegant evening coats of such luscious materials as astrakhan and velvet — not only as accents, but as full-fledged outerwear.

Styles ranged from businesslike double-breasted to winter-ready trench coats. There was no end to the detailing, from peacock feathers to military broaches to studs and silk embroidery. Designers also mixed materials, combining leather and tweed, wool and velvet, fur and fabric.

For a more casual look, fashion houses offered hooded duffle coats and pea jackets. There were few sportier styles, although biker jackets, bombers and parkas made cameo appearances.

Overall, the message was conservative. Jackets tended to be short and close to the body, and pants were mostly skinny with some more relaxed looks.

Layering was in, and turtlenecks were substituting for ties even for evening. Knitwear was geometric and floral patterns graced just about any garment.

Total black was the season's favorite tone — perhaps wishful thinking for the balance sheets. Overall the palate was traditional urban, with just sparks of teal, peacock blue, red and purple.

Much of the flash was reserved for accents, like silver details on footwear or shimmery fabric for shirts and jackets.

If all this was too much austerity, then ostentatious studs glammed up some wardrobes.

Bags were flat, for the work laptop, or roomy, for travel getaways. Velvet slippers were big, contrasting with heavy biker boots. The classic laceup and fringed moccasins were sure bets for the season.

ARMANI

Leave it to Mr. Armani to prove that comfort and elegance can share the same closet.

His menswear winter 2013 collection had all the items a well-turned-out gentlemen needs, and yet was as comfortable as a pair of jeans and a sweat shirt. The secret lies in the materials: knitted wool and stretch fabric. The ample cut of the clothes does the rest.