Gentlemen, 2013 winter looks getting serious

MILAN — Gentlemen, things are going to get serious next fall and winter.

It could be the crisis gloom, but many Milan designers are thinking business. Double-breasted suits are a favorite in preview shows that continued Sunday for a second day. As are flat leather bags, good for computers, or even newspapers.

Shoes are classics, oxford lace-ups, loafers, fringed moccasins or ankle boots, often with silver accents. A bit of bling?

Suits are tailored, and colors are dark and sober, with luxury expressed mostly through the materials — alpaca, cashmere and tweeds. There is little sportswear in this round of Milan menswear with the overcoat making an elegant comeback.

Scarves are also making a strong showing — a layer of security, not only against the bitter winter nights but also the financial chill.

PRADA

The Prada winter fashion show was pure entertainment from the real live actors modeling the clothes, to the huge red-carpeted runway set in the ballroom of an invented palazzo, to the eccentric and at times dramatic outfits.

Such Hollywood A-listers as Adrien Brody, Willem Dafoe, Gary Oldman, Tim Roth, Emile Hirsch and Jamie Bell walked the runway with a naturalness that confirmed their talent as perfect players in the Prada pageant.

Most of the actors wore the collection's staple overcoat, long, black and elegant with wire-rimmed sunglasses tucked like a handkerchief in the breast pocket.

Only Adrian Brody donned a double-breasted red overcoat with a black velvet collar and fur-trimmed lapel, and sported matching red-lensed, round sunglasses.

Overall Miuccia Prada's winter 2013 collection spoke of a man who likes to be both eccentric and mysterious, is quite sure of himself and at times a bit of a snob.

He wears brooches that look like medals on his jacket, prefers vests to sweaters and likes the arrogance of a high stiff collar on his white shirts. He's not embarrassed to wear underwear as outerwear and toss off his overcoat to reveal a pair of boxer shorts paired with a tuxedo shirt and gartered knee socks.

Somewhat of a dandy, he prefers his hair long, as is tempted by the eccentricity of a mustache.

Leave it to Miuccia, who every season proves to be the most creative of Italian designers, to put on a show where despite the thrill of Oscar-winning actors playing the part of models, the clothes still kept the leading role.