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Still, though it was dominated by proper bourgeois-looking pieces, there were still sudden bursts of Castelbajac's trademark irony, like the Mickey Mouse ears that peeked over the bustline of a bustier dress, and the measuring tape as a waistband on a serious suit — a touch guaranteed to keep the wearer counting calories.

As a kicker, the floor-length silver sequin gown that closed the show was paired with a pearl-covered choker made out of what appeared to be a neck brace — the accessory of choice for those women for whom whiplash is no excuse for not looking chic.

The collection marked the start of a new era for the house of Castelbajac, which was recently bought by a South Korean sportswear company after it initiated bankruptcy proceedings.