Following in Darwin's footsteps in Galapagos visit

By Kim Gamel

Associated Press

Published: Tuesday, Aug. 16 2011 2:40 p.m. MDT

Visitors have two main options: a cruise that allows you to live on the boats and see farther-flung islands, or a hotel stay with guided day trips to nearby islands.

Carolina Pedersen, 31, from Sweden, chose the hotel-day trip combination, staying, as I did, at the Hotel Silberstein, near the main drag in the tourist hub of Puerto Ayora.

"I wanted to go out, having a meal in a nice, cozy restaurant, feel free to do what I want and feel the ground under my feet," she said. "All day excursions I made were special moments for me ... but my favorite moments were those when I walked down to the port in the evening, looking out at the water, watching all the animals around me — just breathing fresh Galapagos air — and enjoying every second of it."

Our first daytrip began after breakfast with a 45-minute bus ride to the dock, then a dinghy ride to the yacht that took us to various islands each day.

We laid on the sun deck for the hourlong ride to North Seymour island. Huge, crystal clear waves crashed against the shore as the dinghy landed.

North Seymour is home to one of the largest populations of frigate birds, which often seemed to dive right at the tourists furiously snapping pictures. The birds are known as the pirates of the archipelago because of their skill in stealing food from other seabirds. Males are easily spotted by red throat pouches that inflate so much during mating season they look like they might pop.

Grasshoppers jumped into our path as we picked our way over loose rocks under strict orders to stay within the markers to protect the breeding grounds. The birds and other animals were remarkably fearless, which made for great photography since we could get so close to them. The smell of salt water mingled with bird droppings.

As we rode away, we saw blue-footed boobies on a cliff. Unfortunately we didn't get to witness their famous mating ritual in which males lift their turquoise feet high, then dance to impress the females.

We ate a delicious meal of grilled fish while sailing to Las Bachas, a white sand beach on the southwestern side of Santa Cruz known as a nesting site for the Pacific green sea turtle. Relentless sand flies and a downpour (January-May is rainy season) cut short our visit.

The next day, manta rays leapt out of the water during our hourlong trip to South Plaza Island. A large male sea lion blocked the path on the landing dock carved out of the rocks. The guide explained we had stumbled into a sea lion kindergarten. The male was guarding the young, which scampered in the water and around craggy rocks, while the rest of the colony was out foraging for food.

Land iguanas also greeted us, and a sea gull stood as still as a statue while I took its picture from just a few feet away. We hiked along the cliffs and admired the flora, the masked boobies — so called because of the gray that stretches across their eyes — red-billed tropic birds and others.

We ended up at a cliff covered with some bones — apparently the remains of a sea lion, although the guide joked that they were the remains of a New York tourist who had been left behind.

As we marched back to shore, lizards darted from the side and we had to veer around the occasional iguana while trying to stay on the marked path and avoid the guide's wrath.

We took the dinghy back to the boat for lunch while it stormed. When the rain stopped, we'd reached a place where we could snorkel, so we jumped in the water from the dinghy, then swam back to the yacht alongside sea lions and flounders. A school of rainbow mackerel swam underneath and I was excited to see a whitetip shark sleeping in the sand.

The last day began at 6 a.m. for a two-hour boat ride to Bartolome island, where haunting land scenes for the 2003 Russell Crowe film "Master and Commander" were filmed.

We had breakfast on board, passing close by Daphne major, a volcano that is a diving destination and the site of research projects, finches and blue-footed booby nests.

Climbing onto Bartolome felt like landing on the moon. We hiked up a wooden staircase to the peak, some 120 yards (meters) up the volcanic cone, which was topped with a small lighthouse. The reward was a breathtaking view.

We then sailed around the corner to Pinnacle Rock, a spearheaded obelisk that juts out from an adjoining land mass and is the best-known landmark of the Galapagos. We went snorkeling in the rain, spotting penguins, octopus, blue-spotted fish, starfish and even a huge lobster as we swam to a beach. We were soaked by the storm on our way back to the dock, but we enjoyed another lunch of grilled fish as we sailed back to port for the last time before flying off to the Ecuadorian capital of Quito the next day.

If You Go...

GALAPAGOS: Visitor numbers are limited and access is regulated, so a packaged tour or cruise is a must. Rates vary depending on time of year, length of stay and type of accommodations. Ecuador's official tourist site - Ecuador.travel — offers basic information and sample pricing at http://bit.ly/pKrDqK. One website for U.S.-based tour operators is http://www.discovergalapagos.com.

GETTING THERE: Fly from Quito or Guayaquil, Ecuador, to the Galapagos islands of Baltra or San Cristobal. A $100 per-person fee ($50 for children) is required at the airport for access to the Galapagos National Park, http://www.galapagospark.org/.

CHARLES DARWIN FOUNDATION: http://www.darwinfoundation.org/english/pages/index.php

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