Dining out: Lanta's more than luscious custard

As I pondered how to express my feelings about a recent visit to Lanta's FroZone, a jewel-toned treasure of an eatery in an up-and-coming West Valley neighborhood, one thought kept intruding:

CUSTARD! FROZEN CUSTARD! FABULOUS FROZEN CUSTARD!

But I've got to step back from that for a while. There is a lot more to Lanta's than its scrumptious, silky, rich, creamy frozen custard ... oops, I did it again.

What I mean to say is, this place may be centered around frozen treats, but there's much more to it than that. The same loving care lavished on that wondrous custard (whoa there, girl) informs the homemade soups and fresh, simply constructed sandwiches that make up the rest of the menu.

My children were instantly enchanted with Lanta's, situated in the curvy-walled corner of a newish strip mall, with tons of windows and a tall central atrium painted in the colors featured in the rest of the decor: emerald green, bright violet, golden yellow, candy-apple red. The effect could be garish but instead is invigorating and cheerful.

The prices at Lanta's are great: just a touch above your average fast food for a meal that's so much better.

Two of our kids ordered crisp-crusted, sweet-and-salty ham-and-cheese paninis from the children's menu; served with crisp-tender fries, they were a satisfying portion for small ones.

Another daughter, the soup lover, tried the surprising potato and bacon soup. I expected a creamy, milky base and was surprised to see a thickened clear broth swimming with veggies and bits of bacon. The second surprise: Despite the unorthodox recipe, it was delicious.

My oldest, who has graduated to the adult menu, had the chicken salad sandwich on thick slices of high-quality white bread. It was great, with big chunks of cubed lean chicken, cashews, celery and pineapple in a light dressing that served to hold it all together without overwhelming the fresh flavors.

I had the fabulous, if goopy, turkey guacamole bacon panini on sourdough bread. Each signature ingredient was amply represented, and the guac was simple and fresh. The blend of earthy, salty, sweet and smoky flavors between two slices of crispy pressed bread was luscious.

My husband had one of his favorites, the French dip, rendered well here with mounds of juicy beef and Swiss cheese on a toasted baguette and intensely flavored au jus on the side.