But after I tasted my husband's schnitzel, I wished I'd had that. One of our servers said it's her favorite thing on the menu, and I can see why. It's described as "lightly breaded," and for once, that's no lie. The breading was whisper-thin, just enough to flavor the meat and give the dark, savory brown sauce some purchase. The dish was topped with melted Swiss and Gruyere cheeses and served with smooth, buttery mashed potatoes and fresh young beans of bright spring green.

We had pie for dessert. Really great pie: light, flaky, buttery crust, beautifully made fillings. My husband, an all-American sort of fellow, had the excellent apple pie, served traditional style with sliced cheese on the side, and the kids shared a piece of dark, intense blueberry pie with lots of whole berries. But I think I got the best one, the sweet, decadent blackberry cream, with whole berries running like a silk ribbon through mounds of cream filling in a crust so light it was barely browned.

Soup and salad $2.99-$9.99, sandwiches $6.99-$7.99, entrees $7.99-$12.99, desserts $2.50-$3.25, breakfast (served until 11 a.m.) $4.99-$8.25; sides 35 cents-$4.75.

Rating: *** 1/2

Where: 68 W. 3900 South

Hours: Monday-Friday,

6 a.m.-3 p.m.

Saturday, 7 a.m.-2 p.m.

Closed Sunday

Payment: Major credit cards accepted

Phone: 266-4322

Wheelchair access: Accessible, if a bit crowded

Also: Whole pies available with advance notice

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Stacey Kratz is a freelance writer who reviews restaurants for the Deseret Morning News. E-mail: skratz@desnews.com