From there, hikers work their way across a rocky ridge that steadily narrows. It finally becomes a rock fin only a few feet wide, with thousand-foot drops on each side. Fixed chains set into the rock allow a safety grip on exposed sites for those traversing the edge of the fin, but it can be a terrifying ordeal for those who fear heights. It also is not a hike recommended for young children.

Despite that, it is a crowded trail, with frequent waits at narrow spots for hikers coming the opposite direction. The reward for those who travel the entire rock fin is an unequaled view of the Zion Canyon 1,500 feet below.

A different adventure awaits at the Temple of Sinawava. At road's end, a paved, mile-long trail leads up the river. There begins a classic slot canyon, the Zion Narrows, where visitors can embark on a four- to 10-mile hike, tromping through the river as sheer vertical walls ascend on each side.

This is a wet hike and not one to be taken lightly. The river is frigid until midsummer, requiring dry suits to avoid hypothermia. Good wading boots are essential. All the specialized gear is available for rent from outfitters in Springdale, who also brief first-time hikers on the peculiar hazards of hiking slot canyons. The reward is a unique hike through canyons of unforgettable beauty.

And for early season refugees from winter like us, it also is a unique welcome to spring.

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If you go . . .

GETTING THERE: Zion National Park is located in the southwest corner of Utah, about 2 1/2 hours by car from Las Vegas or 4 1/2 hours from Salt Lake City. From Las Vegas, take I-15 north. North of St. George, Utah, take Exit 16 and travel east on State Route 9 for 31 miles to Springdale, the park's main entrance. The entrance fee is $25 per vehicle for seven days.

ACCOMMODATIONS: The Zion Lodge, midway in Zion Canyon, is the only hotel in the park and offers cabins, motel rooms and suites beginning at about $150 per night; reservations at www.zionlodge.com or 888-297-2757. The Watchman and South campgrounds are just inside the park entrance; Watchman campsites can be reserved by calling 877-444-6777 or on the Web at www.recreation.gov; South campsites are first come, first served. Motel and bed and breakfast accommodations, as well as full-hookup campsites for RVs, are available in Springdale and other nearby towns.

FOR MORE INFORMATION: Visit www.nps.gov/zion/ or 435-772-3256 or www.zionpark.com/

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William Kronholm was the AP's Western regional news editor before retiring. He lives in Helena, Mont.