Gloria's features rich, exquisite gelato

PROVO — If for no other reason, Gloria's Little Italy Trattoria is worth visiting simply for the gelato. An ice cream confection that originated in northern Italy, it provides a touch of home from the owners, who are natives of Italy. Its smooth texture boasts a rich and exquisite taste. I favored the pistachio, but the chocolate and coconut were also delectable.

You find the gelato at the front of the establishment as part of a market that also features Italian meats and cheeses. To the left is a step-down area with dining space and a stairway that also leads to an eating area. The decor is simple, even basic, but don't let that distract you from the food. A good deal of it — especially the sauces — are excellent.

Most of the people in my party ordered a pasta option where you choose the pasta and the sauce. By and large the pastas do not appear to be homemade, but all sauces are made from scratch. The arrabbiata sauce is robust with a spicy tomato flavor enhanced by a little parsley, garlic and red pepper. This is a nice choice. The quattro is a four-cheese delicacy with asiago, fontina, Parmesan and gorgonzola mixed in a perfectly light cream sauce. I ordered carbonara, which is listed as a cream sauce with pancetta and eggs. It was good, but the egg flavor was stronger than any carbonara I've tried before, and it reminded me of bacon and eggs. The finest selection was the tomato and cream-based salsa Rosata, which resembles the tomato basil soups that have become popular in most area Italian restaurants. You could open up a vein and just run it through.

Gloria's also features specialty dishes that range from fettuccine with shrimp, spaghetti with chicken and melted mozzarella to tortellini, ravioli and lasagna. I selected the gnocchi with a ragu meat sauce. The potato pasta was light and cooked to perfection. Although they serve sandwiches on either a generous ciabatta bread or a thin, crisp bread, $8 gets you nothing except the sandwich, and for the diner at our table who ordered the Caruso, it was a disappointment. It called for grilled eggplant, a garlicky oil and melted mozzarella but only featured a thin slice of eggplant and tasted as if it were a slightly oily cheese sandwich. A happier choice was the Michelangelo, with prosciutto, mozzarella, tomatoes, lettuce, artichokes and plenty of Italian spices.

We tried the Mormon tiramisu with chocolate, but it is a pale substitute for the rich, spongy original. Made without the traditional coffee granules or anything stronger, it becomes more of an average pudding. I recommend skipping it in favor of their tortes, cannoli, fresh fruit tarts, eclairs and — of course — the gelato.

GLORIA'S LITTLE ITALY — *** 1/2

Where: 279 E. 300 South, Provo

How much: Appetizers: $7.99-$14.99; Entrees: $8.99-$12.99; Desserts $3.75-5.75

Reservations not required

Phone: 805-4913

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Charlene Winters is a freelance writer, former food editor and food judge who — when she's not in the kitchen — works as the director of communications and marketing for BYU alumni. Contact her at charlene_winters@byu.edu.