There is, however, a Napoleon connection: the dish was purportedly created for the premiere of Victorien Sardou's play, "Thermidor," about the French Revolution. "Thermidor" was the month in the French Republic's calendar, and the "Thermidorean reaction" refers to the political machinations that led to the execution of Robespierre, ended the Reign of Terror and helped propel Napoleon to power.

The lobster dish, however, has enjoyed a much longer run than the play, which was banned after only three performances because of its politically sensitive subject matter.

Here are the directions from the French chef George Auguste Escoffier in his 1903 book, "The Complete Guide to the Art of Modern Cookery":

"Split the lobster in half lengthways, season and gently grill, then remove the flesh from the shell and cut into fairly thick slices on the slant. Place some Sauce Creme finished with a little English mustard in the bottom of the two half shells, replace the slices of lobster neatly on top and coat with the sauce. Glaze lightly in a hot oven or under the salamander."

Napoleons

The consensus among food historians is that the layered pastries called napoleons weren't named for the emperor. The name is thought to be a corruption of the word "Napolitain," referring to a pastry made in the tradition of Naples, Italy. The pastry used for making napoleons is mille feuilles, literally meaning "thousand leaves."

But again, there's a connection. According to "Larousse Gastronomique," the pastry was likely created by Antonin Careme, a French chef during the Napoleon era who is considered the father of modern French cuisine.

He was the first "celebrity" chef, and Napoleon was one of his numerous well-heeled clients, according to "Cooking for Kings," by Ian Kelly (Walker & Company, $26). Careme popularized the souffle and invented the puffy white toque that chefs still wear on their heads today.

Careme excelled at lavish pastry centerpieces that were the crowning glory of grand dinners, and it's possible that he made Napoleon's wedding cake, as Emeril Lagasse writes in "Emeril's Delmonico."

CHICKEN MARENGO

1/3 cup olive oil
4 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves (about 1 1/2 pounds)
12 ounces fresh, white mushrooms, sliced (about 5 cups)
2 cups frozen pearl onions, thawed
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme, crushed
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 14-ounce can diced tomatoes (undrained)
1/2 cup dry white wine (or chicken broth)