European contact began with the Portuguese in the 1500s. In 1655, Francois Caron of the French East India Company reached Madagascar and began trading with the natives. In the late 17th century, the French established trading posts on the island, and eventually claimed it as a colony, a relationship that existed well into the 20th century.

But its proximity to the African continent and other factors of geography also have placed Madagascar within the African sphere of influence.

That blend of history and varied dominance has created a culture unique in its own right.

Tana, the capital, has a bit of a European flavor, with cobbled streets that wind up hillsides filled with brightly painted buildings and the occasional church spire.

But go out into the nearby countryside, and the terraced rice paddies will make you think of China or Indonesia.

That interesting blend carries over into other areas. Religion, for example. About 45 percent of the people are Christian, but about half the population still practices traditional religions that incorporate a complex system of beliefs known as "fady." These relate to actions, objects and social events and incorporate a number of specific taboos. But they vary from village to village and even family to family.

Traditional religions emphasize the connection between living and dead. One practice is the "famadihana" or "turning over the dead." In annual festivals, remains of ancestors are removed from family tombs, rewrapped in silken shrouds and used as the focus of singing and dancing before being returned to the burial place.

Not every family member is removed every year, Ntsao, our guide at Perinet Reserve, told us; but in villages where the practice takes place, there are always some ancestors due for a turning.

We were told we would find "polite but reserved" people in Madagascar. And for the most part we did. We did not run into crowds of children — or adults — begging for a handout. There is more of a language barrier here than in many places. Few speak English, and my college French didn't go very far. But despite that, the people we met on the beach at Maroantsetra or in the village of Andranofotsy were friendly and as curious about us as we were about them.

To get to the village, we took a boat up the Andranofotsy River, about an hour-and-a-half ride. That's the only way to go; there are no roads. Had we wanted to visit the city of Tamatave, it would also be by river, said Seraphin, our guide in this area.

What roads there are around Maroantsetra are often unpaved, bumpy and filled with puddles of water from the rain. A year or so ago, the bridge on the road that connects the town to the airport collapsed and has not been repaired. So to get across, you drive to the foot bridge, walk across and hook up with a different vehicle on the other side. But since most of the people don't have cars, it's not a major problem for them.