Designers embrace modesty at N.Y. Fashion Week

NEW YORK — If the world needs another sign that Britney Spears' look is yesterday's news, check out the 2008 spring fashions displayed on the runways at New York Fashion Week in September.

Gone are the skin-centric, tummy-revealing and possibly private part-exposing trends that Spears and friends like Paris Hilton made ubiquitous. Instead, designers are embracing modesty, using sheer fabrics and lingerie looks to subtly hint at sexiness.

It's an extension of the ladylike trends for fall; designers seem to have made the collective decision that a lot of skin isn't in.

New York Fashion Week is an eight-day preview of the spring-summer looks of 100 or so designers.

Marc Jacobs

Marc Jacobs presented his spring collection to a packed crowd that had been waiting for two hours.

But it looked like he could have used a little more time. Models were wearing what Jacobs called "scrap tops" and "one-half gowns" — clothes that one presumes were left unfinished to make an ironic statement — thus, giving the audience plenty of glimpses of their silk, satin and crepe bras, slips and tap pants.

The collection largely fit into some of the more important trends emerging from New York Fashion Week: color-blocking, sheer overlays, sequins, and nude and natural colors with bright pops from purple, pink and orange.

Calvin Klein

And now for something completely different: Calvin Klein's spring collection was neither feminine nor rich in detail. It wasn't candy-colored nor rooted in nature's neutral colors. No ruffles. No sequins.

The collection designer Francisco Costa turned out had a unique streamlined and sophisticated look that had been virtually absent from the runways at New York Fashion Week, bucking every trend along the way.

Half the outfits were a creamy white color, and another, say, 25 percent were various shades of gray. The only pops of color came from a few green dresses near the end of the presentation.

The clothes, ranging from the opening ensemble — a notch-collar seamless jacket with a stretch, string-back bodysuit and long, high-waisted pencil skirt — to an almost floor-length satin organza dress with molded short sleeves, were serene and elegant.

A group of double-panel dresses were light and delicate, while the trouser looks, some with skinny legs, others with wide legs and all with high waists — were long and lean.

Betsey Johnson