Coming to terms — Understanding food labels

Label without a cause? Not in today's food stores, where many of the product stickers are more a statement of political beliefs than nutrition or taste.

You'll find "free-range" or "all-natural" chicken; "fair-trade" chocolate; "artisan" cheese; or "organic" breakfast cereal.

"Without question, a greater number of customers are choosing what and how to eat based upon political and ethical concerns," said Steven Rosenberg, owner of Liberty Heights Fresh, a Salt Lake specialty food store.

"In fact, so many people are now concerned about what is in their food, how it is raised, where it is produced and what is being added to it that the demand for local food production is on the rise."

But beware the halo effect. A lot of labels may seduce you to buy in order to feel more healthful, politically correct or environmentally conscious — but they don't always mean what they imply.

"Personally I don't pay attention to any health claims on packaging, they are so complicated and misleading," said Christi Paulson, leader of Slow Food Utah, part of the Slow Food International movement, whose goal is to turn the tide of processed, or "fast," food.

"I rely on my own research to determine if a particular product is good for my personal health," Paulson said.

One of the most nebulous terms is "natural," she said. "It could mean lots of things. High fructose corn syrup is highly processed but is still used in products that are labeled 'natural' since it does come from corn."

Under the legal definition, "natural" isn't the same as "organic," as some people may believe. And a glance at the shelves of "natural" potato chips and juices will tell you that "natural" isn't necessarily good for you.

ConAgra Foods last week launched a "natural" line of Orville Redenbacher microwave popcorn. There's no neon orange fake "butter," but since 50 percent to 60 percent of this popcorn's calories come from fat, it's hardly a health food.

Since Paulson believes in "Good, clean, fair food for everyone," the labels she considers most important are "organic," "organically grown," "pesticide- and herbicide-free," "raised without hormones" and "fair trade."

But even these terms can lead to an ethical dilemma. If organic foods are shipped thousands of miles to your produce aisle, isn't using all that shipping fuel harmful to the environment?

"Organic is going to big business now and losing some of its credibility," said Paulson. "I feel that a locally grown product that uses organic methods is more sustainable for our land and community."