An indelicate delicacy

Published: Tuesday, Aug. 14 2007 12:54 a.m. MDT

Just as tabloid newspapers at times break real news stories, strident and vocal activists at times can touch on an issue that the nation cannot ignore. Such seems to be the case with the controversy over "foie gras," the dining delicacy derived from goose liver.

Visual images are riveting, and the still photographs and video footage showing metal pipes being jammed down the throats of 3-month-old ducks and geese so food can can be poured in to fatten them up are unforgettable. And they have created an outcry and also some changes in policy for local restaurants. Already the tony restaurant, La Caille, in Sandy, has pulled the foie gras appetizer from its menu. Others will likely follow suit. Bad publicity is bad for business.

So far, 12 nations have banned the manufacturing of foie gras (France, however, sees foie gras as a national treasure). Newspapers in the United States have joined the cause, often with punny headlines such as "Liver let die" or "This Valentine's Day, have a heart, not a liver." Roger Moore (a k a James Bond) has stepped forward as the obligatory celebrity spokesman.

Still, on the Web, sites that decry the cruelty of foie gras farms run next to sites selling foie gras.

Chicago already has put a ban in ink, but we prefer to let public pressure and conscience work. Foie gras will disappear when the market says serving it is not worth the headaches.

In the end, Americans work on a sliding scale of sensitivity. The fact breeders keep chickens in tiny pens hasn't created a change in chicken eating. Nor have videos of calves being caught as they are born to be shuttled off and slaughtered for veal hurt the veal industry. And the nation still exports horses to France to be used as food — even a former Kentucky Derby winner.

But something about the violent gorging of tiny geese and ducks obviously crosses the line.

For, though Americans may be fickle, they are concerned about fairness. And, eventually, they tend to speak in one voice when they see the innocent and defenseless being victimized — whether it be children or baby ducks.

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