Taste lesser-known berries by planting your own

Ask any number of people what their favorite berries are, and invariably you'll hear a combination of the following in reply: strawberries, blueberries, raspberries and blackberries. But most people overlook a whole treasure trove of summer's lesser-known berries, a cache that includes gems such as currants, gooseberries, mulberries and lowbush blueberries, the smaller, sweeter cousins of the more familiar highbush variety.

Unlikely to appear on supermarket shelves, these "other berries" can usually only be encountered during a trip to the farmers' market. However, to experience them at their best, consider growing the specimens right in your own backyard. These fruits thrive in many USDA zones, save for the southernmost, and are easy to grow — they need little more than a patch of well-drained soil and some sun. And except for mulberry, which makes a charming shade tree, the plants take up little space.

The flavors of these little jewels vary greatly from specimen to specimen. There's the lemony tang of gooseberries, the natural sweetness of mulberries, and the resinous musk of black currants. Then there's the mouth-puckering tartness of red currants, and the slightly less bracing acidity of white currants.

While some of these berries taste just right on their own, others are best tamed with sugar. Whatever the variety, the best way to enjoy them is in simple preparations, where their distinct flavors are allowed to shine. Try tossing them into salads, mixing some into pancake batter or baking them into tarts. You can even enjoy them in savory dishes; pickled or plain, their tartness strikes a pleasing contrast against rich meats, such as ham and roast chicken. Or, simply transform them into jams and jellies, and savor their flavors long after the last berry has been plucked from its vine.

Berry gardening

Plant berries in well-drained soil during the spring or fall. Most specimens will thrive in full sun; gooseberries and currants can fruit well with a little less light. Begin by digging planting holes twice as wide as the spread of the roots and just deep enough so that the roots will be covered as much as they were in their containers. Backfill the soil, firm in place, and apply mulch before watering.

1. MULBERRY: Black mulberries (Morus nigra) require mild winters, such as those in the West and Southwest. Beyond those regions, gardeners should stick with white mulberries (M. alba), red ones (M. rubra), or a hybrid, such as "Illinois Everbearing." To harvest, lay a plastic sheet under the tree, and shake the limbs to loosen the berries and make them fall. Shown in the accompanying photo are two wild seedlings.