Puglia: www.pugliaturismo.com or 011-39-08-3223-0111.

Getting there: Puglia is best visited by car. Fly into either Bari or Brindisi and then rent a car.

Accommodations: Skip hotels and stay in real homes on the seaside or in the countryside. For luxurious fortified farmhouses, called masserie, try Masseria San Domenico — www.imasseria.com — and Borgo San Marco — www.borgosanmarco.it — both at Fasano, or Barsentum near Putignano — www.barsentum.it. There are also cheap small bed-and-breakfasts with earthy peasant meals — www.salentoinbb.com.