Ham it up! Flavorful glazes complement the meat's saltiness

Ham is on the Easter menu for more than two-thirds of Americans, according to a survey from the National Pork Board.

But that doesn't mean you have to serve it the same way year after year. You can give it a personal twist with a sweet glaze or a sassy sauce.

"While ham is good on its own, it is much better accompanied by a flavorful sauce that complements the ham's inherent saltiness," conclude the editors of Cook's Illustrated magazine in "The America's Test Kitchen Family Cookbook" (America's Test Kitchen, 2006, $34.95).

So when does a "sauce" become a "glaze"?

A glaze is "a liquid preparation applied to food on which it forms a smooth glossy coating," says Merriam-Webster's Dictionary. (Think glazed doughnuts.) The glazing mixture is usually applied to the ham while it's cooking, so it can caramelize and thicken. Keep in mind, however, that the sugars in a sweet sauce attract heat and burn easily with a high or prolonged temperature. This is why some glazes are brushed on only during the last part of the cooking.

The beauty of ham glazes is that they're usually sweet and simple. You can go with ingredients, such as soft drinks and fruit preserves, that are already in your kitchen.

Cola-flavored hams have been around a long time, and Emeril Lagasse included a root beer-glazed ham in his cookbook "Emeril's Creole Christmas" (William Morrow, 1997, $24). Fruity flavors, such as orange, peach, cherry and apricot, add a tart-but-sweet component.

Or you can get creative with exotic ingredients, such as the Mojo Sauce and Papaya Salsa that cookbook author Sheila Lukins created last year for the Pork Information Bureau.

"We've gotten a lot of feedback from folks about ham, and we've found that many folks are striving to fix the ham of their childhood, where maybe grandmother served up the family's traditional Coca-Cola glazed ham," said Pamela Johnson of the Pork Information Bureau. "Also then there are those who want to put a twist on tradition with the global-flavor experiences that they enjoy today."

Many cooks consider the leftover ham as a bonus to use in future meals. If you're using a glaze on your ham, remember that it will also permeate the leftovers, noted Johnson. A sweet-and-sour flavor might work in an omelet or sandwich but clash in your favorite ham-and-potato casserole.