Jason's is OK, but it's no N.Y.

OREM — What do you say about a deli that has a wide range of trans fat-free foods, an option of fresh fruit or vegetables instead of chips, reasonable prices and four pages of options? It's called Jason's, and it's completely serviceable. Not spectacular, super or sumptuous, but serviceable.

Perhaps I've had one too many splendid sandwiches in New York City's clattery diners or miss the generous olive spreads on a New Orleans' muffaletta, but the specialty sandwiches at Jason's were rather ordinary.

Sure, the meats were shaved super thin and, except for some dry meat on the Beefeater, had the requisite moistness. But the bread for the most part was unexceptional, and that is at least half the pleasure of a deli sandwich. The New York Yankee number, for example, featured corned beef, pastrami and Swiss on rye with mustard, but it was dry, dry, dry. Dry, too, was my partner's Philly Chick Wrap. The flat round used for the muffaletta sandwich was tasty, but the filling was so sparse, I thought I had perhaps ordered a bread burger.

My brothers used to complain about my sandwiches, because they said I was stingy with the fillings. They griped that while they lived in an arid climate, they didn't have to put dry food in their mouths. Jason's sandwiches reminded me of my own.

Disappointing, too, was the French onion soup, with a base that was too reminiscent of a dark bouillon and had no more subtlety than the nearly overpowering au jus for the dip sandwiches. The cheesecake dessert was a sliver or ordinary-ness slid onto a plate.

At the same time, there is much to recommend Jason's Deli. The broccoli cheese soup, one of their signature dishes, was creamy with a lovely texture and flavor. The same could be said for the tomato basil. The salad bar had a delectable choice of fresh greens, toppings both common and unusual, flavor-filled dressings and bite-size gingerbread and corn muffins. Another good option is the custom sandwich where the buyer selects the meats, breads, cheeses and dressings. It also has a multitude of health options with fresh ingredients, USDA certified organic food choices and vegetarian dishes.

Delis are designed to be a way to get good food fast, and Jason's qualifies. You can get a variety of foods, which makes it a good choice for a crowd with diverse food tastes. However, except for the soup and salad, Jason's just doesn't happen to be a deli I would sink my teeth into.

JASON'S DELI

Rating: 2.5 stars

Where: 771 University Parkway, Orem

Cost: sandwiches $5.50-$6.50, soups $2.25-$3.25, salads $5.99-6.50, desserts $1-$2.99

Reservations not required

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Charlene Winters is a freelance writer, former food editor and food judge who — when she's not in the kitchen — works as the director of communications and marketing for BYU alumni. Contact her at: charlene_winters@byu.edu.