Dining out: Tiki Hawaiian BBQ

My sister, Cassie, hates Hawaiian food — or, at least, she did until this past week.

She described it as greasy, with fatty, carelessly cut meats (or semimeats like Spam) and a general lack of freshness that she found disappointing on the occasions she's tried Hawaiian in Los Angeles, where she lives.

Well, maybe Utah-Hawaiian food is different. After a recent lunch at Salt Lake's Tiki Hawaiian BBQ, Cassie had this to say: "I was very pleasantly surprised."

In these parts, where our vibrant local Polynesian culture makes for a raft of tropical eatery choices, people know what to expect from islands-influenced food, so maybe they have higher standards. Tiki meets the highest expectations with its friendly, helpful service and fresh, tasty dishes made to order.

On the day we visited for a late weekday lunch, the dining area was clean and welcoming, with basic tables and chairs and sponge-painted walls festooned with tropic-themed prints.

I knew as soon as I saw it on the menu that we had to have otai, a delicious milky-white blend of coconut cream, grated coconut, grated pineapple and diced mango. If you've never tried this traditional Tongan beverage, which is like drinking a fruit salad (chewing will be involved; it's chunky), get on down to Tiki for a cup.

I like how Tiki does its meals for kids (or keiki, as they're called here): Diners simply choose a kid-size portion of the regular menu items. The kids enjoyed dark-marinated chicken teriyaki and crisp, panko-breaded chicken katsu, along with the obligatory scoops of mac salad and fresh, tender sticky rice.

As an appetizer, Cassie and I shared the lomi lomi salmon. This cross between sashimi and salad features bites of salty, soy-marinated raw salmon tossed in "Hawaiian-style salsa," diced tomatoes, red onions and green onions. It's deliciously salty, fishy and fresh.

For lunch, Cass selected from one side of Tiki's menu, I from another. She had the "island favorite" Fiju curry, a stewlike melange of lean chicken, cauliflower, carrots and squash in a light-green, herb-sprinkled sauce that's just slightly curried with a finishing hint of spice.