Dining out: Emigration Market

It's amazing to realize that the cafe at Emigration Market is really a warmed-over patio, so convivial is its atmosphere.

Right now, the place is especially cozy, not only because of the weatherproofing that shuts the patio off from the blustery outside elements, but also because the cafe — a long, narrow rectangle along the market's west side — is jubilantly festooned with Christmas decor.

So it's a good time to stop by Emigration Market for a meal. Then again, just about any time would be. Like the market that is its home, this cafe thrives on customers who keep coming back for its local interpretations of restaurant classics.

The menu at the Emigration Market cafe is broad, with a variety of pizzas, calzones, grilled and deli sandwiches, burgers, salads, appetizers and, after 4 p.m., a small group of entrees.

And so is the clientele. When we visited for a recent weekday lunch, we sat near a couple of families, a group of older men who talked about retirement during their lunch, a couple of people on their lunch breaks and a gaggle of teenagers, most of whom left with kids' meals.

Because it was lunchtime, we skipped the appetizers (such standard fare as nachos, hot wings and bruschetta) and got right to our meals. Because my husband was running a bit late, I ordered for him the Laird Park calzone, figuring he would enjoy its blend of Italian sausage, pepperoni and prosciutto with Parmesan and mozzarella cheeses. I was right, but I should have paid attention to the price tag: This calzone, at $14.99, is no Hot Pocket.

Instead, what looked like a 14-inch pizza folded over and stuffed arrived at our table with a crisp, fire-cooked crust and a just-melted inside (our waiter assured us that, due to the cooking method, this is how it's supposed to be). It was sliced into three portions, each big enough to make a substantial lunch on its own. Next time, we'll share one, but I must say, the leftovers made a tasty lunch the next day.

I had the "bbq" pork sandwich, and, boy, was that a good choice: a fist-size scoop of tender, juicy pulled pork with a tangy-sweet, oniony sauce slathered underneath on a soft "sheepherder" bun, which stood up well to the goopiness. You'll need a few napkins to get through this meal, but it's worth it.