Bush and his wife wore grim expressions as they took their places for the interfaith service at St. Paul's. The 240-year-old Episcopal church, across the street from the site, escaped damage and became a center of refuge for weary rescue workers.

Bush's pew in the church was filled with representatives of the president's experience of the attacks.

Jane Vigiano, who lost two sons in the attack — Joe, a policeman and John, a firefighter — greeted the Bushes and sat next to the president. On Laura Bush's side was Bob Beckwith, the retired firefighter who handed Bush the bullhorn on his first ground zero visit. Further down was Arlene Howard, the mother of 9/11 victim George Howard, a New York Port Authority police officer. Bush keeps Howard's badge as a constant reminder of the attacks.

A printed message from the Rev. James H. Cooper said: "The message to people who visit St. Paul's is simple: Go back to your communities knowing that a place of love stood next door to Ground Zero. Try to make the world a better place."

Outside the church, several dozen protesters shouted "arrest Bush" as the president's motorcade left. They held black balloons that said, "Troops home."

Even before Bush left Washington, surrogates from Vice President Dick Cheney on down spent the Sept. 11 anniversary's eve vigorously defending the administration's record on improving the national defense over the past five years.

"There has not been another attack on the United States," Cheney said on NBC's "Meet the Press." "And that's not an accident."

On television and newspaper opinion columns, Cabinet secretaries and agency heads sought to make the case that the government under Bush has made important changes that have lessened the risk of attack.

Secretary of State Condoleezza Rice cited additional security at ports and airports and increased cooperation among intelligence agencies, a point echoed by the nation's intelligence chief, John Negroponte.

Democrats, however, contend the administration has fallen short because so little cargo is inspected at U.S. ports and chemical plants, and other high-value sites are vulnerable.

"I think we're in trouble," said Democratic National Committee chairman Howard Dean. "We have not pursued the war on terror with the vigor that we should have because we've gotten bogged down in this civil war in Iraq."